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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
so after much deliberation i finally have time to sit down and write a review for install, the kit, and any other misc ish. first and foremost let me tell you that the actual install doesnt take knowledge of rocket science, but it does require one to know a few things beforehand. the night before i assembled the entire thing in my room just to make sure i knew where each part was going before i tore my car apart. getting the OEM header off of the manifold is very difficult and as i said before, knowing what tools to use and each step (eh hem manual) is a plus. i mean being flustered and not even considering using an open/box wrench to take the left corner nut of is crazy Doh! . i cannot really remember too much being mentally difficult except the vacuum lines, where they should run and where to tee them. difficulty lies in the physical contribution needed for the job. GRRRRRR the oil pan, holy freakin poop, i had to chisel, beat, kick, pound and pry before i even got it to remotely budge. it took me a good 3 hours to get off. after that, the downpipe and exhaust manifold wasnt aligned properly, so i had to take the turbo apart and piece it together individually. once everything seemed to be in place, i gave it a start, and was startled by the results. it smoke a little, but nothing abnormal to someone who has seen an turbo install, so that freaked me out. the idling was horrible, but i will explain that later. that night i gave it a little push, and popped a coupler off. so how is it today you ask? well its complicated. its idling poorly, is running rich, has the CEL, stalls, has exhaust leak, and the boost meter doesnt reach over 5psi.

***PLEASE TAKE NOTE!!!*** all of the above previously mentioned about problematic characteristics has NOTHING to do with ZPIs kit, fabrication, or manufacturing. I assure you it is only due to my lack of inexperience, as i am taking the necessary precautions to remedy these problems.

idling, of course its idling poorly, i have the OEM sparkplug in. i do have an NGK as it will go in this weekend. this will correct the idling, stalling, lesser gas mileage, and maybe running more rich than not. i have the double antifouler that will go in this weekend which will take care of the CEL, and possibly help mileage and running rich. i am going to uninstall, and reinstall everything making sure all lines are tight, and the exhaust and turbo housing is sealed properly. the only, and i mean the few incorrect aspects of the whole kit was the unclocked turbo and the new location for the MAF sensor. so without further adieu here is a list of newbie warnings and/or donts of a turbo install. take note of this all you newbies who are concerned about installing yourself, as these tips will definitely help you out. for all jaded heads in here, you have my full permission to tell me how dumb i am while laughing your asses off.

1. dont use silicon hoses for vacuum lines, they crimp and cause very very poor idling. use steel braided rubber hoses.
2. dont forget oil pan sealant, your oil will continually drip, leaving little pools in your driveway.
3. make sure you tighten everything very very good. torque everything that calls for it. my kit still isnt torqued, im surprised it hasnt fallen off yet (probably because its overtightened).
4. get EVERYTHING prior to the install, you dont know how many times i ran back and forth to walmart, the hardware store, and the autostore for poop i needed, or lacked.
5. dont forget to take the gasket off the OEM header, reconnecting the spipe with the downpipe without it makes it sound like complete butt.
6. dont forget the O ring on the BOV, without it, the BOV doesnt work, and gurggles instead of psssshhh.
7. put the charge pipe coupler on throttle body first, then charge pipe, do not install coupler onto charge pipe and entire thing onto throttle body, you will blow/pop the coupler off.

i wish i could remember the rest. this weekend, all that will be taken care of and my car should be at 100%. my problems include untorqued bolts, oil pan sealant, seize compound, cold sparkplug, tightened vacuum lines (primarily where the boost gauge is tee'd), new copper gaskets for wastegate, and refitting of the turbo. obviously, i know whats wrong, so its not a problem.

now for the actual product: this turbo kit is nice. it pulls very hard right after spooling at 2.5k. i mean my car rips. there have been no problems with the kit itself. i have no reporting complaints as of now, as i have had it on for 3 weeks i think. Seriously, it is a very easy install, and a low maintenance type of turbo kit. this is my first one, and ZPIs kit has definitely convinced me to turbo future cars. ZPI as a whole is great, and their customer service is second to none. besides the turbo itself, anything ive needed thereafter has been processed and shipped promptly. i hope this testimonial will show that there are cases of good, and that they truly are trying to become a premier supplier of our products (if they arent already.)

special million thanks to sciondad, poisentC, and kenny. they were a tremendous help in the install, and kept me cool when i wanted to freak out. i wish i could remember more of what i wanted to say, but as the clammoring starts to file in, im sure i'll will remember, and post. thanks for looking.
 

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nice write-up... im still on the fence btwn. the TRD s/c and a ZPI stage 0 or 1...

hmmmm..... i do like letting the BOV and turbo bleed while at stop lights (just ask uberingram when he let me drive his srt... i just sat there at the stop light and turned the music off so i could hear the pssshhhh of the turbo... one of the best sounds in the world IMO)... i think ill get the ZPI... but which stage? and ill probably get an EBC too...
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
jp: gas mileage, i clocked in at 368 the other day. this is with light driving, and very little to no hitting boost. the car is insanely quicker. i mean, you literally break your neck when the car kicks.

josurr: dude, go turbo. go with the stage 1, youre going to get a stage 0, and totally want to upgrade. the second i hit boost, the second i wanted injectors, FMIC, and emanage.
 

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Thanks for the write-up, unseen.

Grr...now you have me thinking about it.
 

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Is it doable by the not-so-technically inclined? I'm inexperienced with cars but I got tools and the willpower.
 

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I seen the kit on racingsolutions.com for $2800. It says that it will put out 230hp at the wheels. I am thinking about it. I would rather have this then the TRD Supercharger. Does the car need any other modifications with this turbo? Do you need an intercooler?
 

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Stage 0 doesn't need it, or come with it. Stage 1 does.
 

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How much do you think it would cost to have it installed? Also, do you think it could win against a SRT-4? I know that they usually run 13.8. It would have a lot more horsepower.
 

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Not a bad write up. Congrats on the install! For all those on the fence, I'd say wait it out and go turbo and buy the kit SK VR4 and I are putting together... but that is just personal preference
What is the spring rate of the wastegate? I'm sure you aren't running an EBC or MBC yet so that will give us a good idea of what boost level you are running (if you are still having issues w/ the gauge).

One thing I'd like everyone to keep in mind... I'd be VERY tentative of installing any turbo kit that does not properly address the fuel system. I'm sure lo bux will agree with me. Also, go for a tune ASAP as running without one can be very dangerous.
 

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I'm thinking I'm gonna wait this out till the car isn't AS new and the warranty's all good and expired before I decide to void it
. But yeah, it's VERY tempting...
 

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Originally posted by Obike@Dec 14 2005, 10:55 PM
One thing I'd like everyone to keep in mind... I'd be VERY tentative of installing any turbo kit that does not properly address the fuel system. I'm sure lo bux will agree with me. Also, go for a tune ASAP as running without one can be very dangerous.
bout time someone else is starting to use their head. I love how this company seems to think that w/ the stage 0 kit that nothing has to be addressed. They kept on claiming that the A/F ratios were good for the boost they are running on the kit which I believe the spring in the wastegate is set to 8.6psi. Thats all fine and dandy w/ the A/F ratio, but what about timing???????????? Its funny how a small company doesnt think its necessary but someone like Toyota who is running less boost has addressed this problem
 

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How do our tranny's hold up to that much power, stage 1 especially? Can they handle that while being reliable, and lasting a decent time? I know trd made the s/c only boost as much as it does so they don't have problems with the tranny.
 

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We'll find out over time... I think the main thing we need to worry about are axles.
 

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Yea, im still young and as much as i want it, i really shoudn't have that much power at my feet so i get to wait and see how the results come out.
 

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Originally posted by Obike@Dec 15 2005, 02:49 PM
We'll find out over time... I think the main thing we need to worry about are axles.
with the power that most people are making you wont hafta worry about axles...I have only heard of one person shearing an axel and it was at the track on drag radials w/ about 30 psi in the tires...if your really worried about axles, I live 10 mins away from the notorious Driveshaft Shop, Im sure they will make up a custom set for me if I wanted.
 
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