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Don't do it. Ask Steve Dinan or Reg Riemer why not, they're both very well known tuners (know way more than I do). Wait for ATI, Fluidamper, or TCI to develop a proper torsional vibration damper. Removing the OEM piece could have very detrimental consequences especially since we have a chain driven oil pump.
 

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Originally posted by NavyDoc05@Oct 8 2005, 03:54 PM
i have the unorthodox racing pulley, works great for me, its so light, it wouldnt even show up on a scale. the original is like a freakin lead paperweight. big difference.
Huge difference. You removed a torsional damper and replaced it with a paperweight. Call us when the chain on your oil pump breaks from the effects of torsional vibration.

If you really had an interest in reducing rotating mass, you should have got in on the Fidanza buy. There's no risk of engine damage from a lightweight flywheel. There are a number of documented cases of engine damage from replacing torsional vibration dampers with solid pulleys. I'll be happy to name their names too.
 

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Originally posted by NavyDoc05@Oct 9 2005, 08:46 AM
eddnog, yea man i noticed a difference. especially in throttle response, or at least it feels. LO BUX RACER, where did you get your information? do you have a website address from a credible author?if so send me the link please. and yes my oil pump still works, and if im supposed to feel vibration, i havent felt it at all.

i just got off the phone with my personal mechanic, ESC racing, www.escracing.com, and he says he has never heard of a lightweight pulley causing any problems of that sort, and even if it did, why would Unorthodox Racing make a faulty pulley? that opens them up to all sorts of lawsuits. my mechanic is going to call unorthodox racing on monday to see what they say, and im sure it will be the same as his.. overall, im still happy with my buy. fidanza flywheel? why would i do that? if im going to do that im going to get a new clutch as well. sorry, my car is still fairly new.
Start here. Then click here. Then click here for information directly from Toyota, the guys who designed your car and engine.

Shawn Baumgartner (owner of Unorthodox Racing) will NEVER tell you there is any danger to his product. I have argued with him in the past about this, he is an idiot. He also will not pay for your engine repairs, he only warrants his crank pulley for manufacturing defects. He does NOT warrant any incidental or consequential damages, and has not paid any claims for damage attributed to his product because his warranty is very specific.

Ask Guillermo Polo, Michael Gaari, Lance at Toyomoto in Miami, and a host of other Supra owners what happens when you remove your harmonic damper and replace it with a UR pulley. Flexplate bolts back out. Crank position wheels break and rotate so the engine either won't start at all, or will fail intermittently while driving. Rod and main bearings show unusual wear patterns. And a host of other wonderful things.

I realize you don't understand the physics. Here's what I can tell you for sure: your oil pump is chain driven. Chains do not like shock loads. Removing the damper increases the shock loading on both the oil pump chain and the cam chain. One (or both) will break prematurely. If they were belt driven, it would be no issue, but they are not belt driven, so they will likely be the first casualties from removing the damper.

The flywheel change has NO negative effects. Zip. Zero. Nada. Nil. It will not void your warranty, but I guarantee you, the UR pulley will because Toyota will show up in court with the same documentation I've linked here and you'll be screwed. It is a BAD mod, and should not be recommended by any reputable engine builder. NO domestic engine builder would ever recommend removing a torsional damper and replacing it with a solid pulley. They know all too well what will happen to a cast crank without a damper: it will break, without any doubt. This is why Fluidamper, ATI, and TCI have a booming business with domestic engines. It is not only bad physics, but it is also bad business to replace a damper with a solid pulley.
 

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That mechanic hasn't been building engines for 25 years. I know plenty of line mechanics who couldn't even time cams if the factory didn't provide the magic marks for alignment. His statement about breaking the chain is horribly misinformed. I can point to manufacturers over the years making serious mistakes like this an suffering terribly because of it, starting with BMW motorcyles in the 60's breaking cam chains on their US models.

Ultimately it's your engine. I wouldn't risk it. It's not worth it, and the performance gain is minute compared to changing the flywheel (which takes nearly 7 lbs off the rotating assembly instead of 3 lbs and it is at a MUCH larger radius than the pulley.)
 

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Steve Dinan says no. Dinan builds the most powerful BMW's outside of Formula 1. I think that means a lot more than anything I say.
 

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Add 29 years to your age and see what happens. I could easily be your daddy.
 

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Not that I know about. Check with ATI, Fluidamper, and TCI, or better yet, be the first on your block and tell them you'll order 50 to distribute if they make them for you. Sell 49 and get yours free.
 

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It's ZERO hp and ZERO torque. Sorry, a Dynojet doesn't measure hp or torque, it infers hp and torque from the vehicle's ability to accelerate a known mass. Want more Dynojet hp? Put on lighter wheels and tires. Did you make more power? NO. Does Dynojet think you did? Of course, it is a fundamentally flawed method of measuring hp. You would not measure any increase on a hydraulic or eddy current dyno because the amount of power the engine produces DOES NOT CHANGE ONE WATT. The time it takes to get to top speed is reduced, but top speed remains exactly the same, and top speed is a direct measure of hp.

Low 12's is not stress on the crank pully. Any piece of aluminum can do that. Operating at the crank's resonant frequency for a few hours is stress.
 

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I would have to register. I have no desire to join any more forums. I have no desire to get in another flame war with people who refuse to accept fundamental physics. The engineers who built the engine put a damper on the crank for a reason. They clearly explain why in their training manuals. Steve Dinan also clearly explains why it is foolish to remove a factory damper and replace it with a solid pully.

I've said all I want to say about this more times than I can remember. ZPI does not warranty your engine. They warranty their part. If your engine fails because their part fails to damp crank vibration, guess who foots the bill? You do. Toyota will not warranty it, and neither will ZPI, since they warranty their pulley to be free of manufacturing (NOT DESIGN) defects. That's all you need to understand to get the real deal on what happens next.

As I've said before in this thread, when Fluidamper, ATI, or TCI make a lightweight damper (as they have for Supras), then buy it, run it, and be happy. Until then, all the solid pulleys are junk unless you have the money to buy new engines on a regular basis.
 

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DoubleJ16 - how about we put a turbonator, a magnetic fuel enhancer, and Slick 50 in your car and dyno it. If it makes more power then we call them all good fixes.

Are YOU so close minded that you refuse to examine the physics?

Christ, my own grandmother connects herself to electrodes everyday in the foolish belief she is purging her body of bad cells by applying a current at their natural frequency. It doesn't kill her, and she feels better so it must be good eh?

Closed minded about pulleys. Bullsh1t. I'm not closed minded about anything that works. I am violently opposed to snake oil solutions that endanger an engine's service life. You have not seen what I have seen. You very obviously haven't been around engines all your life, or you wouldn't repeat the same COMPLETELY IDIOTIC STATEMENT THAT THE ENGINES ARE INTERNALLY BALANCED.

The OEM pulley doesn't balance a DAMNED thing. The aftermarket pulley doesn't balance a DAMNED thing, and I'VE NEVER SAID IT DID OR DIDN'T BALANCE ANYTHING. You are proving yourself to be outside the realm of ignorant and rapidly joining the ranks of the stupid because you don't read what I wrote, you don't read what Steve Dinan wrote, you don't read what Reg Reimer wrote, and you don't read what Toyota wrote. The only other possibility is you read those things and don't comprehend it.

I'm really sorry you don't get it, and I'm really sorry you think 15,000 miles is a lot of testing. It's not. 100,000 miles is NOT a lot of testing. You have no idea what goes into certifying an engine for production, and it's obvious to me you don't care. Great. Enjoy fixing your ish when it dies prematurely. I know it will, and everybody with a 2JZ that thought I was harsh on Shawn Baumgartner when he tried selling his undampened pulleys on the MkIV list has come back and said, oh, you were right.
 

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If you run it at the resonant frequency for potentially even a few minutes, you could find out exactly what breaks first.

Cranks resonate and break, valve springs resonate and break, cylinder walls resonate and crack. You just have to find the right frequency and it's all like a Memorex commercial.
 

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Originally posted by DoubleJ16+Apr 20 2006, 04:32 PM-->QUOTE (DoubleJ16 @ Apr 20 2006, 04:32 PM)
<!--QuoteBegin-lo bux racer
@Apr 19 2006, 07:27 PM
It's ZERO hp and ZERO torque.  Sorry, a Dynojet doesn't measure hp or torque, it infers hp and torque from the vehicle's ability to accelerate a known mass.  Want more Dynojet hp?  Put on lighter wheels and tires.  Did you make more power? NO.  Does Dynojet think you did? Of course, it is a fundamentally flawed method of measuring hp.  You would not measure any increase on a hydraulic or eddy current dyno because the amount of power the engine produces DOES NOT CHANGE ONE WATT.  The time it takes to get to top speed is reduced, but top speed remains exactly the same, and top speed is a direct measure of hp.
Wrong, it was called "Dyno Dynamics", it was not a dynojet.

The numbers are valid, you just hate the pulley so much you assumed it was dynojet. In that thread I see it actually gives you 12whp and 18 torque.. The gains are almost completely through the powerband, not just at peak HP.

Look at the dyno sheet for yourself, the dynos were done 15-20 minutes apart from each other on the same dyno, same EXACT mods & conditions, just 1 difference THE PULLEY:
[/b]
I don't need to look at the dyno. I know what happened. The engine did not move one more gram of air. That means there was ZERO power gain. Inertial dynos are BS for measuring power. THey are great for measuring relative power, but any dyno that shows a power increase when there is none is useless in my book. No tuner with a clue uses an inertial dyno to tune fuel or ignition timing because you can't load the engine properly, or check steady state parameters because all it does is resist acceleration.

Wait, damn it, that's the pesky physics again. Oh well, I'm wasting my time typing this...

Do you really think I don't get the reducing rotating mass thing? Why do you think I so strongly advocate a lightweight flywheel? Why did I help install FIVE of them for NorCal tC owners (at RIDICULOUSLY low cost to them)?
 

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Originally posted by nester@Apr 21 2006, 09:41 AM
Dyno Dynamics is an eddy-current dyno. It is not an inertia dyno.
Good point. My mistake.

If there is a change in hp, it's because parasitic losses are reduced - it's an underdrive pulley. OK, how about I disconnect my alternator, run total loss, give up my power steering, and disconnect the a/c compressor. Will you still say I gained hp? I didn't, I just removed the power those systems consume.

Fundamental to this: no power is gained if the engine doesn't move more air. I can play games with inertia, parasitic losses, even tire pressure, and change dyno numbers pretty easily, but they don't change the power the engine produces.

For example, way back in the 60's before most of you were conceived, Detroit published hp numbers that mathematically removed all the parasitic losses - alternator, water pump, oil pump, power steering pump, a/c - why? Because they wanted to publish the biggest number possible. Along come the Japanese in the 70's - they published BMEP - Brake Mean Effective Pressure - measured in the cylinder and integrated over time. It removes ALL losses from piston ring friction, crank and rod bearing friction, and only gives the theoretical maximum power the engine can produce. Again, the intent is to publish the biggest number.

Now we have all kinds of dynos available - inertial drum dynos, eddy current dynos, hydraulic dynos, water brakes - you name it, somebody has built a dyno around the technology.

From an engine development perspective, you want to measure at the crank. Why? Because it reduces the number of variables. Why don't we do this all the time? Because it's a bitch to get the engine out of the vehicle, mount it in a stand, hook up all the necessary control and measurement devices, and run it. It's a lot easier to hook up to a complete working car and run. Now you have a ton of variables to account for - all the accessory drives, all the interfaces between the car and the dyno (yes, if you measure on a drum type of dyno, you can get different readings just from the change in tire pressure), so you have to take the results with a grain of salt. So far, I've seen ony dyno that removes the tires from the equation - Dynapak. Everybody else is willing to accept the tire variables, but any dyno measuring with tires will show a difference based on the tire and wheel weight.

Some might say it's a better dyno, more representative of the real world, because lighter tires and wheels help you accelerate faster. Others will say, sure, that's all well and good, but it doesn't help me tune the engine if the tires are changing pressure (and they are because they are heating and cooling) while the engine is being tweaked. Which end of the telescope do you want to look down?

AFA underdrive, it may be OK, it may not. It depends on a lot of factors. It does free up horsepower. A lighter crank damper also frees up horsepower, and if it actually damps torsional vibration, then it's good. Fluidamper, ATI, and TCI ALL do this. I would recommend their products to anyone wanting more just by bolting on a part. None of these things "make" more power. Saying they make more power is the same as saying I disconnected my power steering and got 5 more hp. No, you didn't get 5 more hp, you gave up your power steering and recovered the 5 hp it takes to drive it.

I do NOT recommend solid pulleys because they do not dampen torsional vibration. Saying they do no harm is like saying, I've revved my engine to 10k rpm and nothing broke, so it must be OK. Wrong. You have no idea what parts have been compromised by this singular event, nor do you know the engine can sustain that rpm for any length of time greater than the one event you observed. Ask anyone who has done cylinder head work about valve spring failures, and you'll get the same story about natural frequency, oscillation, and catastrophic failure when you hit the "magic" rpm.

It's all simple physics.
 

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I won't need one. It won't happen. There will be failures well before that.

I heard the same BS from members of the MkIV list. Within 12 months, there were failures - crank position indicators and flexplate bolts mysteriously backing out only on engines with solid pulleys.

It's nice that ZPI blames the rod. I'm pretty skeptical. Torsional vibration does funny things, especially as the load increases. Journals distort and bearings don't do what they're supposed to. Ask the V-8 crowd, they know all about it. Nobody runs a V-8 without a damper.
 

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I'm glad to know I'm not alone.
 

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Originally posted by zer0@Apr 23 2006, 11:47 AM
But with the dyno's of the pulley making "Power", kids will be buying these like hot cakes, I dont think anything is gonna stop them. Its sad.
That's exactly why I'm such a d!ck about this subject. The average tC owner can't afford to replace his engine, but can afford to buy a bolt-on guaranteed horsepower adder.

Just like the turbo kits, if you have another car to take you from A to B, and you can afford expensive repairs easily, then a solid pulley might fit your use profile because when it breaks your engine, you'll just fix it and move on. The part I hate most is when someone buys the thing, puts it on, breaks the engine, puts the OEM piece back and takes it in for a warranty claim. That screws ALL of us when we have legitimate warranty claims.

Of course, if you fit the profile for replacing the engine with simply writing a check, then you could certainly contact any of the damper manufacturers and commission a new damper with underdrive pulley sizing and get the best of all worlds: lighter damper, underdrive power savings, and OEM reliability. If the market were big enough, this would be happening right now as it did with the 2JZ when guys wanted to run their Supras at NHRA tracks and the tech inspectors said, sorry, you MUST have an SFI approved damper on there or you don't run. As soon as this happens, there will be quality dampers available (at quality prices) and this whole discussion will be moot.
 

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Ours don't. They are a less expensive design and just wear out. There is no maintenance to the kind of dampers we have.
 

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You had ZERO hp gains. Your top speed did not increase 0.001 mph. Your ability to reach top speed quickly did improve, but you didn't get a single hp from the mod.
 

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That's what I call a major oiling failure. Wonder why? I'd sure like to see some of the other bits...like the oil pump drive chain...
 

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The pump seized and the chain didn't break? How about the tensioner? Is it OK?
 
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