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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just bought the front and Rear Sway Bars for my Scion....I installed the Rear one with no Problem, but the Front was a B!TCH, it took e like 3 hours plus i started to notcie a "CLANKING" sound coming from the front passanger side only when i go over bumps.... So i looked under the car and on that same side i could tell the the sway bar was rubbing up against something b/c the red powder coat was scratched. so i look and i notice that the arm that connects the wheel with the car is what is rubbing against it. Does anybody that bought the Hotchkis Front Sway Bar know what im talking about or can anybody give me some advise b/c the people at the dealership are probably gonnna rip me off terrible for that....I'll try to post some pics soon, thanks guys
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Ken i bought these from you.....got any advice?
 

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Are you sure it is placed right and not offset to one side a little bit? Also, do you have both sides torqued the same and correctly? Is your car lowered or do you have different sized rims/tires which could change your camber?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
its strange becuase the car is not lowered...(i have the springs but i want to get the shocks before i do that), i have the stock rims. this is the first thing iv done to the suspension, my car just hit the 10,000 mile mark and im thinking it might be the alignment but thats strange....the only thing i can think of is that on the brushings their are little holes that are supposed to be greased but i dont see how that would cuase it to rub on ONLY ONE SIDE...!? the passanger side is what im having a problem with...has anybody had this problem or know what i should do...?
 

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I'm putting mine in this weekend. I'll have something to say after that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yea Please do Lo Bux, im really stumped on this...
 

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Lo Bux could u post ur diy pics and explain the process and any ideas to make the install easier
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
i finally figured it out..., actually i just never had the time until recently to get under my car but the reason why the front sway was rubbing was becuase it wasn't alligned properly... it was more on the drivers side than the passanger side, thus leaving a nice amount of clearance for the drivers side but none on the passanger side which explains the rubbing... but anyways i took it to the dealer as well and they looked at it and were like "BLAH BLAH BLAH we dont want to get invovled..."this and that a whole bunch of bull and all they had to do is move the sway like an inch over and i would have payed them to do that....but i did it myself so i saved an extra 200, but i really hate my dealership, anytime i bring my car in they alwasy give me some bull about it... mostly because of the dash kit, but how are you going to sell a car that is marketed towards the youth crowd and encoraged to personalize it. "personalization starts at ..." thats their slogan but its BULL$HIT!!!
 

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It will also not rub if you just push the bushings all the way to the back regardless of bar position.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
lo bux u know what you made me realize..... i have the slotted brackets on the rear...god damn im a dumbass,
plus i did it in a hurry... once again i must go under my car.....for the third time....does unscrewing those screws that hold the craddle in place (like the big one by the strurts and the big one by the rear of the craddle) ruin the treads if you keep on unsrewing them, b/c this will be my third time unscrewing them again and torquing them again.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
by the way bux, what do you think of the bars?, i have the front ones on the hardest setting as well as the rear, IMO it seems like it reduces the body roll quite a bit huh...i think i need to install the springs i have to get the full effect
 

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Originally posted by superchargedscion@Sep 6 2005, 03:28 PM
lo bux u know what you made me realize..... i have the slotted brackets on the rear...god damn im a dumbass, 
 
plus i did it in a hurry... once again i must go under my car.....for the third time....does unscrewing those screws that hold the craddle in place (like the big one by the strurts and the big one by the rear of the craddle) ruin the treads if you keep on unsrewing them, b/c this will be my third time unscrewing them again and torquing them again.....
No, you don't need to do this. The instructions are not very clear about this, but if you download the latest instructions from Hotchkis, you'll see you have it right. The slotted ones go on the back.

I just spent all day today (since I had vacation planned anyway) working on this exact problem. Yes, centering the bar will stop it from hitting while the suspension is under normal static load, but from what I can tell, no matter what you do, the bar gets squeezed between the tie rod and the subframe. My sway is all scratched up too.

First, I swapped the mounts so they are like yours are now. Then I disconnected the front sway and worked it from one side towards the other until it was centered enough to clear the subframe on both sides. Then I took my jack and loaded each front wheel as if I were cornering hard, and I found that the tie rod squeezes the swaybar tightly against the subframe.

Now, this isn't a normal combination. You can't do a full lock turn AND compress the suspension REALLY hard. That's what I was simulating with the jack. I also found I am now getting full steering from lock to lock, which I wasn't with the slotted mounts in the front. I also did a little custom tweaking on the bar to aid with clearance. It really is a very close fit, and the bar is VERY resistant to cold setting (as any decent swaybar should be).

I also discovered a number of things that must have been missed in our hurry to finish, so it was good to go back and recheck, retighten, and confirm settings. I had thought I set my Teins to 16 clicks all the way around (full soft), but in reality, only the rears were set right. The fronts were still at 1 (full stiff). No wonder sharp lips were vicious. Now, with everything set where I originally wanted, the ride is even more compliant, and still VERY responsive to transitions and corners very nicely.

I'll be posting pics of what I found soon. I'm thinking I might ask Hotchkis about it directly, and see what they have to say.

Don't worry about the big bolts for the subframe. You can't hurt them unless you cross thread them.

Link to pics.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
U know what though im still stumped...after the second time i went under the car to try and straighten out my problem....i first unscrewed only what i needed to in order for the bar to drop down far enough to see the brackets, i slightly unscrewed to bracket b/c like i said before, i just moved it over slightly..., as well as moving the NON-SLOTTED bracket as far back as possible so i did that and it seemed like it was fine after that..., but now i'v noticed when i make a left turn and their is a slight bump it rubs again on the same side that it was rubbing against in the first place!! im thinking that i didn't tighten the brackets enough, i didn't torque them becuase it was a pain in the ass getting a swivle head in their, forget about the torque wrench. but either way WTF, i just have a guess as to why its rubbing again...
C'mon Lo Bux, let go after Hotchkis!!!:boxing:
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
im all ready....lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
so is your sway working properly and not ribbing at all.... only time will tell
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
damn this is like the forth post in a row but i have another question now, bux how many miles do you have on your car, i wonder if an alignment would help...? im almost at 11,000
 

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Almost 18k. Alignment won't make any difference for this problem. I have mine adjusted now so I get full lock turns with the car sitting (not actually turning) and I didn't before. It really is a bar position thing. You don't need to lower the subframe at all to reposition the bar, justp lift the car, pull the wheels, disconnect the swaybar ends on both sides, then pull and rotate on the side that is too close. If it hits turning right, the bar needs to move left. If it hits turning left, the bar needs to move right.

The bar doesn't want to move easily (that's good), so expect to pull and twist a bit before it gets into position. I'm still thinking a call to Hotchkis is probably in order though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thats some good advice thanks you saved me alot of grunts...lol
 

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Have you contacted Hotchkis about this issue? Read this thread about the problems and what Hotchkis believes may be the solution. I noticed you list TRD springs, so you don't fit the profile of the rest of the people having the problem. If you really do have the problem, then it would be very good to know and very valuable to pass on to Hotchkis.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
actually Lo Bux, i have the springs but they are not installed yet, my suspension is stock, im waiting until next spring to install everything by that time i plan on having new shocks to go with the springs, and a front and rear strut bar, as well as a brake kit, (not sure which one yet...) Which brings me to another question that i was thinking of starting a topic on...
 
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