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Hey Guys,

I have been in hell the past 3 weeks. My 08 Scion tc (101K miles) has been stalling whenever i'm coming to stop (even on neutral).
I took it to 3 mechanics and the DEALERSHIP! and no one can figure out what's wrong. They have been throwing tests and parts on it. I can't afford anymore of this non sense and need someone's advice. If you guys can please help.

Tests done:
Vacuum Test
Smoke Test
Battery & Alternator Test

All good!

Services done:
New Spark Plugs
New PCV Valve
NEW Throttle body ($600 job) & gasket
Mass air flow sensor cleaned
 

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I just had this happen to me. 2005 Scion tC. 125,000 miles. Stalling at stop signs, lights and 'check engine' light would come on periodically.

Work done:

April 14, 2018

Mileage 125,293

R.O.# 11007

$318.41

REPLACE 4X SPARK PLUGS AND COILS, DIRECT IGNITION COIL, SPARK PLUG

****Drove car off their lot and immediately turned around because it was stalling at light and 'check engine' light came on again. They then replaced a wire that had burned thru the insulation and the car has NEVER run better. They told me the name of the part, but didn't write it down anywhere. I will get that information and send that along to you. I believe that the new plugs helped but the replacement of this burned out wire seemed to be the main cause of the stalling. They also said buying gas at Sam's and grocery stores contains water, which ruins the engine. Truly honest people I dealt with. They replaced that wire free of charge because they missed it during the diagnosis. I am retired and count on the honesty of people I deal with not to gouge me due to living on a fixed income.

Hope this helps!

Karen
 

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I just had this happen to me. 2005 Scion tC. 125,000 miles. Stalling at stop signs, lights and 'check engine' light would come on periodically.

Work done:

April 14, 2018

Mileage 125,293

R.O.# 11007

$318.41

REPLACE 4X SPARK PLUGS AND COILS, DIRECT IGNITION COIL, SPARK PLUG

****Drove car off their lot and immediately turned around because it was stalling at light and 'check engine' light came on again. They then replaced a wire that had burned thru the insulation and the car has NEVER run better. They told me the name of the part, but didn't write it down anywhere. I will get that information and send that along to you. I believe that the new plugs helped but the replacement of this burned out wire seemed to be the main cause of the stalling. They also said buying gas at Sam's and grocery stores contains water, which ruins the engine. Truly honest people I dealt with. They replaced that wire free of charge because they missed it during the diagnosis. I am retired and count on the honesty of people I deal with not to gouge me due to living on a fixed income.

Hope this helps!

Karen

What was the piece you had to get fixed? I have a 2015 tC and have been having this problem for a while now, stalling while slowing down to come to a stop, even sometimes when I'm turning into parking lots, even if I throw the car in neutral itll still stall. Struggles around 1000rpm, dips down to 500rpm then just stalls out.
Took it to the dealership, they said they didnt know, and that my clutch was bad, and replacing the clutch would fix my problem, ended up paying 3500$ CAN to replace my clutch, and yet I still have the same issue as before. Still stalls.
 

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What was the piece you had to get fixed? I have a 2015 tC and have been having this problem for a while now, stalling while slowing down to come to a stop, even sometimes when I'm turning into parking lots, even if I throw the car in neutral itll still stall. Struggles around 1000rpm, dips down to 500rpm then just stalls out.
Took it to the dealership, they said they didnt know, and that my clutch was bad, and replacing the clutch would fix my problem, ended up paying 3500$ CAN to replace my clutch, and yet I still have the same issue as before. Still stalls.
Check your battery and alternator. Try to clean the MAF and throttle body.
 

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Check your battery and alternator. Try to clean the MAF and throttle body.
Battery connections have been cleaned and tighten last time I did an oil change, had toyota check my battery and alt, which came back fine. I also had Toyota clean out my throttle body and maf, and test my fuel pump, which came back fine.

Its only an issue on warmer days, for example if its -35°C here itll run fine, but once it starts warming up even around -10°c to -15°c itll start having stalling issues. I'm a bit stumped at this point 🤷‍♂️
 

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The last time I had an oil change, the battery connections were cleaned and tightened, and Toyota inspected my battery and alternator, which came back fine. Toyota also cleaned out my throttle body and maf and tested my fuel pump, which was found to be functioning properly.
 

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The last time I had an oil change, the battery connections were cleaned and tightened, and Toyota inspected my battery and alternator, which came back fine. Toyota also cleaned out my throttle body and maf and tested my fuel pump, which was found to be functioning properly.
Check your ECT, Engine Coolent Sensor... would just change it. Easy to replace. Car computer may not know cold temp to compensate RPM and Fuel/Air ratio.
 

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What was the piece you had to get fixed? I have a 2015 tC and have been having this problem for a while now, stalling while slowing down to come to a stop, even sometimes when I'm turning into parking lots, even if I throw the car in neutral itll still stall. Struggles around 1000rpm, dips down to 500rpm then just stalls out. Took it to the dealership, they said they didnt know, and that my clutch was bad, and replacing the clutch would fix my problem, ended up paying 3500$ CAN to replace my clutch, and yet I still have the same issue as before. Still stalls.
Bad ignition coil wire plug connectors and connector housing to the coil. Same time replaced individual coils and spark plugs.
 

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Bad ignition coil wire plug connectors and connector housing to the coil. Same time replaced individual coils and spark plugs.
First I would not go back to the dealer if they said it was the clutch that causes this problem you're describing. The poster before is correct, do you have a check engine light on? If so, some auto parts stores do read the code for free. This will point you to the right the direction. If there is no erratic shaking or backfire at higher speed, you may have an air leak that will cause fluctuation of lower rpms even stalling. Check for disconnected or cracked hoses, or defective Mass Air Flow sensor (MAF).
 
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