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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know this has been written about several times, but not many people seem to get it from the scattered questions/responces.

Tonight I removed the tC badge on the rear lower right of the trunk lid. ALL IT REQUIRED was: A little heat to soften up the adhesive, they arent kidding about that stuff being industrial strength. I let it heat up a little, (heated using a hairdryer), then, using my hands, i just started at the top right of the "C" in tC, and pealed it SLOWLY, if you go slow (ie:~4 min), you'll have little to no residue. I had barely any left on the car at all. The Badge, the once centered on your trunk lip/lid is harder to get off. I had to really spend some time heating it up and pulling the top of it evenly forward with my fingernails in order to get it to come off. It will eventually, although I recommend spending 15 min or so between prying at it, and heating it up, which is very important. The adhesive gets a lot more pliable when it’s warm than when it’s cold.

Now for the interesting part.

I cleaned the Scion badge up, washed it in warm soap and water, and dried it. I set up out in the garage to spray paint it, which I did with Black. 15 seconds after starting, the paint was looking like oil on water. The paint was Rust-Oleum Paint for Plastics, in Black, so I can only assume that by not sanding it, I didn’t remove some protective layer over the plastic that was rejecting the paint. So, I sanded it down, took about 20 minutes with a semi-fine sand paper to get it looking right, in fact, If you take the emblem and lightly sand it in circular fashion, it looks kind of neat, like real aluminum, not flat like the badge comes. Anyway, after sanding, I spray painted the first real coat, which went on fine, then 30 min later a second coat, which I let dry overnight. You could stop there, I wanted 3, so the next day I did one more coat, and let it dry. Sealing it with a clear glossy finish is optional, I went down to autozone and got a spray can of the Dupli-Color Auto Clear Top Coat, to seal it up and give it a nice gloss. Give it 2 coats 30 min. apart.

Now, normal people can stop there, and have a great blacked out badge. Me? Nothing the simple way. I decided to paint inside the SCION letters with a silver, and the seal it. It didn’t work too well, mostly because I was in a rush, and didn’t go buy a really fine brush to paint it with. I ended up just wiping the silver out as best I could, and spraying one more coat of black over the whole thing to get it looking nice again. HOWEVER.

For some reason, unknown to me, the last layer of black crinkled up and dried like this:




Now, I’m not sure why, but I kind of like it. I definitely want to do the letters in SCION in silver, but what you guys think? It kind of looks like a rough metal, glossy, but not smooth. I kind of like it, but I don’t want it to look like I just sprayed some paint on my badge and didn’t care how it came out. What you guys think? With silver lettering and a nice clear coat, think it will look nice?
 

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I think it would look pretty good with silver lettering. Thanks for the write-up.
 

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When you shot the clear over the black, the black had already cured, so the thinning agent in the clear molested the colorcoat. If you must use rattlecan clearcoat, you have to shoot it within about 45 minutes of applying color. I find that people often wait far too long between coats, and end up having one coat lift/wrinkle/crinkle/sag the coat before it. You should really have all spray work done within an hour or so, based on average temp and humidity.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Originally posted by Dr. Isotope@Apr 2 2005, 07:02 PM
When you shot the clear over the black, the black had already cured, so the thinning agent in the clear molested the colorcoat. If you must use rattlecan clearcoat, you have to shoot it within about 45 minutes of applying color. I find that people often wait far too long between coats, and end up having one coat lift/wrinkle/crinkle/sag the coat before it. You should really have all spray work done within an hour or so, based on average temp and humidity.
That is true, but I didn't put the clear-coat on. The last thing I put on was the 3rd coat of black, no clear... The third coat dried like that... I'm not sure why...


Either way, I stripped down the whole thing today, and am starting over, I decided the glossy black looked nicer than the cracked glossy black.
 

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It wasn't hard, just time consuming. It takes about 2 days to do.

Supplies used:
1 Can of Duplicolor spray Adhesion Promoter
1 Can Duplicolor Automotive spray paint (color is your preference)
1 Can Duplicolor Automotive Gloss Clearcoat
1 Roll 3M Double-Sided Adhesive Tape
1 Bottle of Rubbing Alcohol

Day 1:

Removed emblems and set up shop in a well ventilated area.

Cleaned the emblems really good with alcohol and removed all adhesive.

Sprayed 2-3 light coats of Adhesion Promoter on emblems. Patience is key.

Once dried sprayed 5-6 coats of Nighthawk Black Metallic paint on emblems. Again Patience is key, do light even coats each time, you don't want the paint to run.

Once dried sprayed 6 coats of Gloss Clearcoat on emblems. Patience, Patience, Patience.

Let dry and harden overnight.

Day 2:

Attached 3M doublesided adhesive tape to emblems.

Reinstalled emblems.

I used Nighthawk Black Metallic and it has a dark blue-black tint to it when light reflects off of it. It's real subtle and only shows up in direct light at certain angles. The rest of the time it looks black metallic.

I did the front and rear emblems.

Pics:






Hope this helps.

-Z
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
wyldkard- after only one night, was the clear coat and paint completely dried/hard? I let mine dry overnight last night and this morning the paint/clearcoat can still be dented with a fingernail... How hard did yours get?
 

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I did mine outside on a warm day. I was able to put on several coats of color and clear, still managed to have them back on the car by sun down.
 

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Originally posted by OliverThomas@Apr 6 2005, 09:16 AM
wyldkard- after only one night, was the clear coat and paint completely dried/hard? I let mine dry overnight last night and this morning the paint/clearcoat can still be dented with a fingernail... How hard did yours get?
It had fully hardened. It was fairly warm here when I did it.

-Z
 
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