Krzy, I decided to go with the NXT for my first wax on my FM and have to say my experience was great. As you stated on and off very easy, leaving a mirror finish that looks terrific. And of course it had to rain today, but the wax stood up great. You can't even tell it rained looking at the horizontal surfaces, and only a small amount of spotting and dusting on the verticle surfaces. I'll be washing it this weekend with the NXT wash (which is supposed to leave the wax intact). I'll let you know the results.
Meguiar's NXT Generation Tech Wax
Manufacturers Product Description
Meguiar's NXT Generation Tech Wax is unlike any other car wax available…nothing comes close to this amazing product. Paint will be darker and richer and shine will be maximized for depth and clarity. The formula has been engineered to dramatically reduce fine scratches and swirls for a flawless show car finish. ESP technology creates a tough polymer bond to the paint to provide extreme protection, delivering our longest lasting car wax ever.
My Notes:
This product is not a true wax. It is a Polymer based paint sealant. Polymer based sealants tend to be less glossy than carnuba wax. Polymers do however tend to have better durability than traditional waxes.
Test Environment
I picked up my Flint Mica tC exactly 1 week ago on November 6, 2004. The dealer said the car arrived the day before and was given a wash and wax (unknown brand). Overall it was shiny and clean, there was a film (unrinsed soapy water) on the rear deck of the car on the rear deck from the original wash so the salesman had the car rewashed for me while we were working on the paperwork.
Over the last week, we've had 3 days of solid rain and the doors were spotted with white residue from daily driving on the freeway. Under the spots, the surface of the car was shiny, but it was obvious that the water beaded up and dried chalky with whatever road grime was thrown at it. I had not yet done anything to the surface of the car since picking it up from the dealer.
Test Procedure
I decided that since the paint was new, I would bypass claying the surface and go with a one-step process. Partly because I wanted to see how this product performs and partly because the surface felt good when I ran my fingers across the surface with soapy water. There are several multi-step processes out there but for now the one-step would serve my needs.
Surface Prep:
I gave the car a good rinse with clean water from a hose. Then proceeded to use a new cotton wash mit and a capful of Zip Wax brand car wash in about a gallon and a half of water. I wiped in large sweeping motions starting with the glass top, I moved to the hood, rear deck, sides, then front and rear; rinsing the surface of each as I moved from area to area. While wiping, the surface of the car was 'slimy' as expected from the lubrication provided by the soap. The road grime wiped off with no resistance and the car was left with its original color.
I used a synthetic shammy (Chamois) to try the car in the same order that I used to wash it. When the outer surface was dry, I opened the doors and hatch to remove the residual water left in the door openings.
Application:
Being a complete novice when it comes to car care, I went ahead and read the instructions..
SHAKE WELL. For best results, apply to a clean, cool surface in the shade. Apply small amount of product on foam applicator and spread a thin, even coat on the entire vehicle and let dry to a haze. KEEP OFF VINYL, RUBBER, and CLOTH SURFACES. Remove with a clean, 100% cotton, terry cloth or microfiber towel turning to a clean portion of the towel for final wipe. For best results on neglected surface, use a pre-cleaner.
The problem with the directions is that they don't say how much exactly a 'small amount' is, they don't define 'thin', and the term 'haze' is pretty vague considering the lack of the other definitions.
I went ahead and did some research and discovered that it really takes a VERY SMALL AMOUNT of the product to go a long way. I was a bit concerned about the applicator being kind of dry and rough when starting. I tried to make sure that the applicator was completely covered very lightly with the paste before I went too far along the paint to avoid scratches.
I started on the corner of the hood, covering the entire surface within the panel. Making sure I had a very thin layer across the entire surface. My rule of thumb was that as long as I could see that it had some on the surface, it was enough. I didn't make it a point to see the color of the paste, I just wanted a hazy paint color. This is very important for two reasons. First, thin layers dry more quickly. Second, the thicker layers are more difficult to remove, or are still moist for a much longer time. I continued down the front, then sides, then rear deck, bumper, and under the bumper. I used side-to-side motions and front to back motions as much as possible to avoid swirling. After the entire car was covered, I walked around the car to make sure I didn't miss any spots or streaks. At this point, I left the car alone to let the wax finish hazing. I looked at it after 10 minutes and it appeared dry, but most recommendations say to leave it for 15-30 minutes. So I did.
Removal:
After about 20 minutes, I decided it was time to remove the haze and reveal the shine I hoped for. To remove it, I used a large microfiber cloth. Rotating, flipping, and shaking it out to remove dust as I moved along the car. The reason for this is to keep the dust residue from collecting in one place on the cloth. I used the same movements across the paint as when I applied the wax. The haze removed quickly and easily from the surface with only minor dusting. I opened doors and wiped the edges of the body panels to make sure I removed the residue from all of the spaces between body panels, bottom edges of doors, etc. After moving across the entire car, I went back and searched for missed spots, streaks of haze, etc. I went around the car twice to make sure there were no more missed spots.
Inital Results:
I'm quite pleased with the result. The shine seems richer than it was originally. I can't make any claims about the durability since it has yet to cure as I write this. My first impression is that it looks great. There is no discoloration. The shine is quite impressive considering this was a $15 bottle purchased from Pep Boys.
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Meguiar's NXT Generation Tech Wax is unlike any other car wax available…nothing comes close to this amazing product. Paint will be darker and richer and shine will be maximized for depth and clarity. The formula has been engineered to dramatically reduce fine scratches and swirls for a flawless show car finish. ESP technology creates a tough polymer bond to the paint to provide extreme protection, delivering our longest lasting car wax ever.
My Notes:
This product is not a true wax. It is a Polymer based paint sealant. Polymer based sealants tend to be less glossy than carnuba wax. Polymers do however tend to have better durability than traditional waxes.
Test Environment
I picked up my Flint Mica tC exactly 1 week ago on November 6, 2004. The dealer said the car arrived the day before and was given a wash and wax (unknown brand). Overall it was shiny and clean, there was a film (unrinsed soapy water) on the rear deck of the car on the rear deck from the original wash so the salesman had the car rewashed for me while we were working on the paperwork.
Over the last week, we've had 3 days of solid rain and the doors were spotted with white residue from daily driving on the freeway. Under the spots, the surface of the car was shiny, but it was obvious that the water beaded up and dried chalky with whatever road grime was thrown at it. I had not yet done anything to the surface of the car since picking it up from the dealer.
Test Procedure
I decided that since the paint was new, I would bypass claying the surface and go with a one-step process. Partly because I wanted to see how this product performs and partly because the surface felt good when I ran my fingers across the surface with soapy water. There are several multi-step processes out there but for now the one-step would serve my needs.
Surface Prep:
I gave the car a good rinse with clean water from a hose. Then proceeded to use a new cotton wash mit and a capful of Zip Wax brand car wash in about a gallon and a half of water. I wiped in large sweeping motions starting with the glass top, I moved to the hood, rear deck, sides, then front and rear; rinsing the surface of each as I moved from area to area. While wiping, the surface of the car was 'slimy' as expected from the lubrication provided by the soap. The road grime wiped off with no resistance and the car was left with its original color.
I used a synthetic shammy (Chamois) to try the car in the same order that I used to wash it. When the outer surface was dry, I opened the doors and hatch to remove the residual water left in the door openings.
Application:
Being a complete novice when it comes to car care, I went ahead and read the instructions..
SHAKE WELL. For best results, apply to a clean, cool surface in the shade. Apply small amount of product on foam applicator and spread a thin, even coat on the entire vehicle and let dry to a haze. KEEP OFF VINYL, RUBBER, and CLOTH SURFACES. Remove with a clean, 100% cotton, terry cloth or microfiber towel turning to a clean portion of the towel for final wipe. For best results on neglected surface, use a pre-cleaner.
The problem with the directions is that they don't say how much exactly a 'small amount' is, they don't define 'thin', and the term 'haze' is pretty vague considering the lack of the other definitions.
I went ahead and did some research and discovered that it really takes a VERY SMALL AMOUNT of the product to go a long way. I was a bit concerned about the applicator being kind of dry and rough when starting. I tried to make sure that the applicator was completely covered very lightly with the paste before I went too far along the paint to avoid scratches.
I started on the corner of the hood, covering the entire surface within the panel. Making sure I had a very thin layer across the entire surface. My rule of thumb was that as long as I could see that it had some on the surface, it was enough. I didn't make it a point to see the color of the paste, I just wanted a hazy paint color. This is very important for two reasons. First, thin layers dry more quickly. Second, the thicker layers are more difficult to remove, or are still moist for a much longer time. I continued down the front, then sides, then rear deck, bumper, and under the bumper. I used side-to-side motions and front to back motions as much as possible to avoid swirling. After the entire car was covered, I walked around the car to make sure I didn't miss any spots or streaks. At this point, I left the car alone to let the wax finish hazing. I looked at it after 10 minutes and it appeared dry, but most recommendations say to leave it for 15-30 minutes. So I did.
Removal:
After about 20 minutes, I decided it was time to remove the haze and reveal the shine I hoped for. To remove it, I used a large microfiber cloth. Rotating, flipping, and shaking it out to remove dust as I moved along the car. The reason for this is to keep the dust residue from collecting in one place on the cloth. I used the same movements across the paint as when I applied the wax. The haze removed quickly and easily from the surface with only minor dusting. I opened doors and wiped the edges of the body panels to make sure I removed the residue from all of the spaces between body panels, bottom edges of doors, etc. After moving across the entire car, I went back and searched for missed spots, streaks of haze, etc. I went around the car twice to make sure there were no more missed spots.
Inital Results:
I'm quite pleased with the result. The shine seems richer than it was originally. I can't make any claims about the durability since it has yet to cure as I write this. My first impression is that it looks great. There is no discoloration. The shine is quite impressive considering this was a $15 bottle purchased from Pep Boys.
