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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As soon as i finish my Audio project in my tC i was thinking about slowly doing a few performance upgrades. Eventually i want to find a nice but cheap sounding exaust system with a deep throaty sound. As well as an cold air intake and such. But first off i was thinking of possibly doing a lightweight flywheel to get a noticable improvement off the bat.

http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/product...oducts_id/10126
Is the one that i found. But i wonder if it will work at all with an Automatic tC. I'd like to get a few more HP and more Torque out of my car. Will have a good extra person or 1/2 a person riding with me all the time when i get my sub box finished. So every extra little bit would help get the car back and give me more control over the power and such.

So will it work, or is there any other performance mods i could do for a very good price?

Suggestions of exausts would be nice as well. Wanted to do a duel exaust tips but havn't found any that have 2 coming out the rear.
 

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thats not a flywheel.
Thats a Lightweight crank pully. 2 TOTALLY different things....i was gonna say how can a light flywheel only cost 160bucks
if those dyno # are right from just that pully thats pretty good for the money. people will tell you they are no good cause you loose the harmonic balancer and all that stuff. I never heard anyones motor going bad from putting one on. If they made one for my motor yet I would buy it up in a sec.
 

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The flywheel is for manuals. Bolts up to the clucth assembly. Autos have trq converters in them. You cant use it anyway..unless i am wrong dont know much about Auto trans.
 

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One thing to keep in mind is that these aren't "creating" horsepower, they are just freeing it up. Less rotating mass means less force is needed to reach a certain power level.

However, with that said... it looks like a good buy. I can't speak for the quality as I am not familiar with that company but they are using pretty damn good materials. Some information on Aluminum 6061 can be obtained here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So being an auto would it still free up power and actually help out in performance aspects of the car?
 

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The underdrive pulley will work regardless of if you are automatic or manual; however, a lightweight flywheel will not (so if you are an automatic, don't buy the Fidanza Lightweight Flywheel). For the money, I think it would be worth it (personally) but it is up to each customer. There are a series of performance mods that work well together... I'd say the underdrive pulley with a lightweight flywheel and some sort of forced induction would be the best bang for your buck.
 

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That is not an underdrive pully. Its just a lightweight crank. The underdrive pullys are smaller in size and would also require new belts. Yea that is a good deal on the crank pully. If I where you I would buy it.
 

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Originally posted by 05Xrunner@Sep 12 2005, 10:31 AM
That is not an underdrive pully. Its just a lightweight crank. The underdrive pullys are smaller in size and would also require new belts. Yea that is a good deal on the crank pully. If I where you I would buy it.
I stand corrected, for some reason I thought it was an underdrive pulley (even when I visited the site).
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
So thats a good buy right there for the money? In terms of price to performance increase ratio's? What could i expect in terms of added hp, torque and feel to a stock tC. Also will it throw anything else out of wack by adding in this lightweight crank pulley?

What and where does it attach to and what does it control. Would like to have some knowledge about what it does and such before i committ.
 

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it replaces the Stock crank pully. It is the pully that is attached the the crank..thats why it is called a crank pully. It is the main pully that spins all your other pullys on the Belt.
You will get som gain out of it. for 140bucks its def worth it.
They are not hard to install. Just losen the tensioner pully get a big ass breaker bar. and break the stock pully free and put on the new one...Really shouldnt take very long..Put the one on my buddies 05 Legacy gt in about 10min
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well when i get ready to start my performance mods, then it'll be crank pulley, intake, exhaust, and then mabey some other stuff. Would like to get some new rims and such also.
 

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It's a bad idea. Steve Dinan and Reg Reimer will tell you so. I can tell you about flexplate bolts backing out, crank position wheels rotating out of time, and bearings being damaged on 2JZs. If the engine came with a damper, removing it is bad unless you are replacing it with an SFI approved damper.
 

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Originally posted by lo bux racer@Sep 12 2005, 05:09 PM
It's a bad idea. Steve Dinan and Reg Reimer will tell you so. I can tell you about flexplate bolts backing out, crank position wheels rotating out of time, and bearings being damaged on 2JZs. If the engine came with a damper, removing it is bad unless you are replacing it with an SFI approved damper.
yes because the Engine of the 2jz is soo long since inline 6. easier for it to get out of balance. Less chance of that happeneing in the 4cyl motor.
This has been discussed over at custom tacos by gadget he pretty much designs most things over at urdusa.com he knows his buisness.

"The engine is internally balanced. It does not need to be balanced externally like the older domestic engines.

The stock pulley does have an elastomeric ring that joins the belt drive to the inner hub. This does have some function of absorbing rotational accleration and decellerations from cylinder firings and sudden loads from accessory units engaging like the A/C clutch. Belt drives themselves do a very good job of absorbing these also and this engine has 4 belts including the timing belt. There is a lot there to absorb the firing pulses.

Many companies are making lightweight pulleys for internally balanced engines and have been for a very long time.

I can tell you that the stock crank pulley is VERY heavy on the 5vz and we have greatly reduced that with this light weight replacement. This reduces the rotational mass and is less inertia that the engine will have to overcome to accelerate the engine speed."

"There is just as much stuff on the web that speaks in the other direction. The longer the crank like in a straight 6 to more of a problem this would be. Our cranks are a good bit shorter. Also elastomeric dampers are tuned for specific RPMs for the stock engine. Once you start modding them and adding superchargers and such it reduces its tuned effectiveness. What is more likely to be a problem is in the cam drive of a overhead cam engine that uses a chain. The chain where may go up. This does not seem to be a problem with engines that use a large belt to drive the cams and why many engine builders that build up the domestic V8s convert the cam drives over to belts. This is why I am hesitant in doing one for the 4.0 and its single row timing chain cam drive."
 

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The damper doesn't do any balancing of anything. Where do people get the idea that a harmonic damper balances? It's NOT a balancer of any kind!

The 2JZ has NO balance problems, it has torsional vibration, just like every engine built. Some have it worse than others, but a big 4 cylinder like the 2AZ suffers torsional vibration. That's why Toyota put a harmonic DAMPER on it. If a straight pulley would work, the accountants would have told the engineers to do it that way. They didn't for a good reason. Honda also knows this and puts harmonic dampers on their larger four cylinder engines from the factory, even though the do NOT on the smaller engines.

The damper reduces harmonic vibration. Your ignornance of fundamental physics AND the 2AZ is showing. It uses a single row chain cam drive, exactly the thing your friend said is a bad idea.

Are you saying your friend knows more about this than Steve Dinan or Reg Reimer (who does consulting for Toyota F1)? I seriously doubt it.

Read this.

AND this.
You really don't have the whole picture, and you shouldn't be giving advice about this without knowing it can, it has, and it WILL do damage.
 

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Well I would still buy it. the chance of anything happening are very slim I say. plus its the same you have a chance if you add a S/C or turbo or anything to trash the motor. So If it was me I would buy it
 

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Aftermarket pulley = NO warranty

TRD SC = Full factory warranty.

What else is there to say?
 

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Originally posted by lo bux racer@Sep 12 2005, 06:34 PM
Aftermarket pulley = NO warranty

TRD SC = Full factory warranty.

What else is there to say?
TRD = Tooth Fairy

Any mod, Exhaust lowering will give you crap on warranty.
Its their call to buy what they want. i know I would pick one up. Especially since they take 10min to install and anything happen can be swapped off very fast.
 

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Oh, yeah, you should know I'm all for lightweight. I didn't install four Fidanza flywheels because I had nothing better to do. It just isn't worth the risk in this case. When Titan or Boost Logic comes up with a proper damper that weighs less than half the stock piece, then I'll put it on my car because I'll have the damping I need and the weight reduction I want.
 
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