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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, my personal goal I plan to obtain by the beginning of this summer is to hit 200+HP at the crank for the tC w/out using F/I. The question I have is what you believe will reach this goal. Using my personal guesstimates a I/H/E setup will add at best 30hp, I'm guessing ~15-20 in actuality. Other than I/H/E, do you guys have any ideas on what would increase it to this target number?
 

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IMHO FI will be way cheaper than torturing a camry engine into 200chp with wussie mods


Edit:

If you do I/H/E it will run you close to a $1000, and put you at 180chp, while SC will be $3K, and put you at around 220chp with potential or warranty.

I tend to think that IHE adds more noise than speed, while FI does it's job nice and quiet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hahaha, true.

The only thing you can't add in is F/I. What about engine mods? Lower-compression pistons, sleaves, etc would probably do the trick but at what cost (other than warranty
). The trick here is to get something that will allow for future expansion and that F/I can actually use... of course the headers would be out of the question for this
 

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Headers do wonders with SCs - I do have personal experience with this. And I did want you to mention "low-level" engine mods - cause these tend to get pretty expensive if done right, and mild FI on stock internals gives way more hp/$

P.S. Es ist nicht Ihr noch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Haha, I'm not too worried about that :0
 

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Then I'd agree...N2O is the cheapest hp/$ mod that you can do. It just sucks to have to refill it all the time. I'd also suggest going FI it may be cheaper and more reliable over time. NA is cool, but unless you're willing to invest thousands to beef it up, it's not woth it. On the other hand, if you are willing to spend tons of dough, why not just get a better performing car? If all you're looking for is performance than an SRT-4 might not be a bad choice for a reasonable amount of dough.
 

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Originally posted by whosthatrussian@Nov 19 2004, 12:50 PM
Then I'd agree...N2O is the cheapest hp/$ mod that you can do. It just sucks to have to refill it all the time. I'd also suggest going FI it may be cheaper and more reliable over time. NA is cool, but unless you're willing to invest thousands to beef it up, it's not woth it. On the other hand, if you are willing to spend tons of dough, why not just get a better performing car? If all you're looking for is performance than an SRT-4 might not be a bad choice for a reasonable amount of dough.
Then you'd be driving around in a Neon instead of a TC that has the body lines of the G35
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I'm more interested in the challenge of modding the car myself (with some professional help only when necessary). The reason why cash isn't the issue is that now a HUGE budget has opened up as my Dad will be paying for insurance as a graduation present. So I'm putting giving the dealership a larger down-payment to lower my monthly bill and that still leaves ~$2k for me to spend. I was going to go w/out FI for a short period of time so I could beef up the motor a decent amount to run ~13psi safely. I was also looking into some tranny upgrades as well.
 

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Forced Induction if I'm not mistaken.
 

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You guys need to read the New Car Features book before you decide what you can or can't do to this engine. 13 psi is crackhead boost. Literally. My Supra detonates at 14 psi on Cali 91 with 8.5:1. Consider yourself lucky if you can run 6 psi at 9.6:1 on 91 octane without severe ignition retard from knock even with a big intercooler.

Sleeve the block? I think you missed the part about the sleeves being cast into the block, and made so thin that there are NO oversize pistons. If the bore is damaged, it's new block time.

Add to this, does anyone know what the injectors flow? How about the flow measurement limits on the MAF? Those two items will limit power faster than anything else you can imagine. Luckily Toyco over-engineers their stuff (I know the MkIV Supra is good to 500 hp for MAF and fuel), but when does it all end and you have to upgrade sensors?

Speaking of upgrades, is the engine boost aware, and if so, how much? The MAP sensor in the 2JZ goes up to 13.75 psi (2.0 kgf/cm^2 absolute) before the output voltage peaks. Anybody know what sensor is in the 2AZ?

There's a lot you can do without FI, but it is expensive. N2O is cheapest as long as you do it right. Hard to say if you need a wet or dry system though. Still too many unknowns with this engine...
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks for the reply lo bux, helps get some information out of the way. I'm going to be going to a local store that is making a bolt-on turbo kit for the tC and find out what they've learned about the engine thus far. Let's see how it can handle. I thought we'd be better off getting low-compression pistons w/ F/I?
 

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Got a link from a Supra friend, and thought it might be of interest:

Very Cool Scion Development

Definitely not smog legal, and definitely difficult to drive. Note the hp increase over a tiny range of rpm when the boost comes on. I've driven Supras like this, and while it's really cool to light up 285 Pirellis at 90 mph when the boost hits, it's not something you want to happen without being prepared for it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Yea, I saw the pics of that car at SEMA along with the dyno. Was watching that site religously until they posted the pics and everything


I'd never want something that ungodly as far as horsepower. I think the highest I'd ever go would be 300hp w/ F/I. I'd like to be able to break 200hp w/out spraying at all and with no F/I. So it looks like in order for me to do that I'm gonna have to do some engine work
. Definately not going to do that until the warranty goes out. Thanks for the info anyways lo bux!
 
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