How much Dynamat?

Just to be clear on one thing, I am not here to make sales, I am a fellow tC owner and enthusiast first and foremost.

You do not need the high cost products but the bargain basement ones almost always eventually fail. How do I know this? I own a sound deadening product company and have tested, used, seen the results of, lived with most of them, etc, etc, in my 30+years into car audio and 5 as owner of a company with my own products.

There are very resonable cost alternatives to Extreme Dynamat, which is a dang fine product by the way, but you really should go with a butyl based mat, I can garantee in the long run you will be glad you did.

The hatch will not provide a huge difference in the road noise in our cars. The worst offending area is the side panels by the rear seats, far worse than I would even have imagined.

We have spent nearly 200 hours going over every single part of our intire car to ensure it is totally quite and solid, including using 300 oz of strutural expanding foam in the frame, pillars, over the wheel wells, every void in the chassis is filled and many other areas. We know our car quite well by now

Rick

Here is what we did to our hatch.

1) removed the trim panel obviously

2) check all the wires and parts inside to ensure none could rattle, used some silicone, tie wraps, etc, to fix the ones that could.

3) stuffed a few junks of accoustical foam into a few areas to give them some support, keep them from resonating.

4) used some very thin aluminum sheeting and covered the access holes into the hatch with it, self taping sheet metal screws were used.

5) removed the rubber isolated resonate reducer(apparently what it is intended for) this saved back part of the weight the mat and aluminum added.

6) Matted over just the plates we installed and onto the stock metal to seal up the holes.

7) Sealed up any remaining holes that are not used to hold the pops for the trim panel, used small patches of mat.

8) Covered(not yet done) the whole area with a layer of ensolite foam, cut our around where the panel pops go so no fitment issues.

We did not mat any of the outside skin, not needed in this situation.

Problem solved



When we finish up the rest of the car and replace the trim panel we are going to cover the back of it with structural expanding eurathane foam then use a dab of silicone sealer on the mounting location for the pops then some on the pops where they plug into the hatch. This is a very important step, not to hard to take apart again if needed in the future.

If all that is not quite enough we will use a very small bead of clean silicone around the hatch trim panel where it meets the hatch.

Excessive? depends on your point of view

Amount of mat and foam needed? Hardly any.

Added weight? barely noticable.

Cost?

Pay the shipping, just a few bucks, and I will give you some left over pieces from our install to play with

Rick

Email me your zip code, [email protected]

Obviously I cannot do this for everybody though, lol!