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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My trunk is noisy as hell... Dynamat (or substitues) to the rescue! How much do I need? I'm only doing the hatch, so is 12 sq ft enough?

Also, how do I apply it? I took the hatch panel off the other day and it's not a flat piece of metal, but there's the thin skeleton (that's the only way I can describe it) above it. Do I try and get some Dynamat behind the skeleton to the back (like this?); or do I only apply it to the skeleton (like this?)? (Sorry, I only found door pictures)
 

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Check this thread.

When Damon and I installed my new system, I used the Protecto Wrap stuff Greg (Alpman) talked about. Its cheap enough to double up on it, and I think it does a great job for the price. I slapped pieces of it wherever I could in the trunk. If it was metal and eventually covered by something else, I Protecto Wrapped it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Wolo, so you're happy with that Protecto stuff? I was going to look into Dynamat alternatives like Brown Bread, but a couple rolls of that stuff looks like it'll do that job.

And to both of you, thanks, I'll try and apply it everywhere I can!!

Anyone know where I can get a roller from a brick-and-morter store? If I were to get the Protecto tape, I'd have to order a roller from somewhere else. I'd rather not fool with another website and shipping.

As always, thanks thanks thanks!
 

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Dynamat produces their own roller thats probably like 4 inches wide. Its like $5 from anywhere that sells it, but yea you can get a dowel roller for cheaper from the hardware store probably.
 

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Originally posted by alanthing@Jul 15 2005, 07:35 PM
Wolo, so you're happy with that Protecto stuff? I was going to look into Dynamat alternatives like Brown Bread, but a couple rolls of that stuff looks like it'll do that job.
Yup, I've got no complaints on the Protecto Wrap. Its not as good as Dynamat, but I think that Dynamat was too damn expensive. For much less, Protecto Wrap does a pretty damn good job.

And I don't know if you need to worry about a roller at all. I cut pieces with scissors and a blade and layed/smoothed everything by hand. Its easier to get into all the nooks and crannies that you'll find.
 

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Just to be clear on one thing, I am not here to make sales, I am a fellow tC owner and enthusiast first and foremost.

You do not need the high cost products but the bargain basement ones almost always eventually fail. How do I know this? I own a sound deadening product company and have tested, used, seen the results of, lived with most of them, etc, etc, in my 30+years into car audio and 5 as owner of a company with my own products.

There are very resonable cost alternatives to Extreme Dynamat, which is a dang fine product by the way, but you really should go with a butyl based mat, I can garantee in the long run you will be glad you did.

The hatch will not provide a huge difference in the road noise in our cars. The worst offending area is the side panels by the rear seats, far worse than I would even have imagined.

We have spent nearly 200 hours going over every single part of our intire car to ensure it is totally quite and solid, including using 300 oz of strutural expanding foam in the frame, pillars, over the wheel wells, every void in the chassis is filled and many other areas. We know our car quite well by now:)

Rick
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I'm not so worried about road noise as I am that embarassing sound that my sub forces my car to make!

Rick, I saw your webpage once before. What's the link again? Yours was the other product I was checking out. I remember reading your project car is a tC. Sweet! How many sq. ft. would you recommend for the hatch?
 

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Here is what we did to our hatch.

1) removed the trim panel obviously:)

2) check all the wires and parts inside to ensure none could rattle, used some silicone, tie wraps, etc, to fix the ones that could.

3) stuffed a few junks of accoustical foam into a few areas to give them some support, keep them from resonating.

4) used some very thin aluminum sheeting and covered the access holes into the hatch with it, self taping sheet metal screws were used.

5) removed the rubber isolated resonate reducer(apparently what it is intended for) this saved back part of the weight the mat and aluminum added.

6) Matted over just the plates we installed and onto the stock metal to seal up the holes.

7) Sealed up any remaining holes that are not used to hold the pops for the trim panel, used small patches of mat.

8) Covered(not yet done) the whole area with a layer of ensolite foam, cut our around where the panel pops go so no fitment issues.

We did not mat any of the outside skin, not needed in this situation.

Problem solved:)



When we finish up the rest of the car and replace the trim panel we are going to cover the back of it with structural expanding eurathane foam then use a dab of silicone sealer on the mounting location for the pops then some on the pops where they plug into the hatch. This is a very important step, not to hard to take apart again if needed in the future.

If all that is not quite enough we will use a very small bead of clean silicone around the hatch trim panel where it meets the hatch.

Excessive? depends on your point of view:)

Amount of mat and foam needed? Hardly any.

Added weight? barely noticable.

Cost?

Pay the shipping, just a few bucks, and I will give you some left over pieces from our install to play with:)

Rick

Email me your zip code, [email protected]

Obviously I cannot do this for everybody though, lol!
 
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