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The key to subwoofer performance is proper enclosure. The best thing to do is measure out the area you want to you want ti dedicate to the system and then pick the woofer that performs best in that space. A smaller woofer in an enclosure that is a proper enclosure will out-perform a larger woofer in an enclosure that is too small.
To get a rough idea of the volume you have to work with, measure the Height, Width and Depth of the area. Then use this formula: ((H-1.5") x (W-1.5") x (D-1.5"))/1728=GROSS internal cu.ft. (rectangular)
You want to subtract 1.5" form each dimension to account for wood thickness assuming you are using .75" wood to construct the enclosure (recommended). If you do not have the volume needed, you need to consider giving up more space or getting a smaller woofer.
BTW, I have a single 10" woofer in my TC.
 

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I actually have taken many pictures of the installation I performed this past weekend. I was planning to do a tutorial which showed sound (no pun intended) installation practices. It was a pretty basic system requiring no modification. In the future I planned to do "add on" modules that address custom installations (door pannels, enclosures, etc.)
I am leaving for Las Vegas tomorrow and I have not started doing anything with the text and pictures.
My system consists of:
Egineered Connecton System
Wiring throughout the vehicle.
ECS

e4300
Under the passenger seat.
Wired to the front and rear speakers. Signal comes directly form OEM unit (front & rear).
4 x 75 Watts @ 12.5V .08% Distortion

e1400D
Under the driver's seat.
Wired to the subwoofer. Signal comes from the line out of the e4300.
1 x 400 Watts @ 12.5V .08% Distortion

VR650-CSi
In door locations.
Wiring run into the doors to allow access to the x-overs. Lot's of work went into sealing the doors.
6.5" Component system

ProWedge
In trunk.
The particular enclosure I have is no longer produced. It's loaded with a 10W3-D2.
The current model

HushMat
All interior surfaces including plastic panels.
Hands down the best material I have used! Very easy to apply and no foil cuts.
Thanks to the folks @ HushMat

I left the OEM rear speakers in place because they will do the job I need them to for now. I am kicking around the idea of placing 6W0-8 subwoofers in the rear stock locations. The enclosure will most-likely need to be made from fiberglass to fit the way I want it.
This will be the subject of one of these modules I'd like to add.
 

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Originally posted by nrhanson@Jan 4 2005, 12:58 PM
JLTD, is that enclosure size the most efficient for the 10W3 D2.  I also have that sub, and the guys who installed it used an oddshaped box that I think is too large for my trunk and which may be more inefficient.  Is there a similar enclosure that JL or another company offers?
The geometric shape of the enclosure in not nearly as important as the proper volume. The dimensions of the ProWedge equal the proper volume, but it doesn't mean that all enclosures need to be that shape. The dinemsions on the website list max height, width and depth for purpose of determining fit. All the demensions needed for build are not there. There is an example of enclosure build size for the 10W3v2 in the Owner's Manual
 
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