[wolo]

I wrote to Scion last night to get an update on the rear hatch rattles a number of us are experiencing. There's not much new to report other than...they're working on it.


--------------------------------------------------------


Thank you for contacting Scion.

We apologize for your experience. We are working on a TSB to resolve
the issue with the rear hatch rattle. Please check back for updates.

Please feel free to contact us should you have any further questions or
comments. We would be happy to assist you. You may contact us
directly at 1-866-70-SCION or by email at
https://secure.scion.com/scion/ssl/contact/contactForm.do

You may also want to click on the following link for
https://secure.scion.com/scion/ssl/contact/handraiserForm.do

Thank you for your interest in Scion.

Scion Customer Experience

 

[iGod]

okay, in my spare time this morning my brother and i went to work dismantling the hatch, insulating every clip, wire, and cable, and test driving for sound. didnt fix a thing. so we went to work on the hatch lifters. messing around with them we found that when the hatch is partially closed, you can manually agitate the lifters and reproduce the rattle that we think you hear. seems like its the rattle that i hear, anyway. its the rod inside the arm that is rattling against the sleeve of the arm, on the inside. the more the hatch is closed, the louder the rattle gets. i think we may have found the issue. now, how do we fix that?

 

[wolo]

Ask the service guys in the back?

You should have your car in service while your at work anyway. Not like you have to wait in the lounge or anything.

 

[wolo]

Did you guys try driving with the hatch slightly open? That would cross the latch off the list of possible problems.

I had my friend sit in the trunk while I drove around the block a few times. He's pretty sure its in the area you guys are looking at, but couldn't get any more specific.

You might be on to something.

 

[iGod]

yeah, we drove with my brother holding the hatch part open. we were looking at the latch as well for a minute. problem is, if you are holding the hatch open, you are putting pressure on the lifters, so they dont rattle at that point, and nothing else does either. with him holding the hatch part way open, it is rattle free as long as he holds on.

 

[wolo]

Hmmm. This thing is annoying me to no end, and its not even that bad.

Its just the fact that its there, teasing me.

 

[Labfish]

Maybe some foam tape?

 

[wolo]

I foam taped all contact point for the hatch to no avail.

 

[krzy]

If you suspect the lifters, why not just remove them and take it for a drive? They cant rattle in the back of the car if they are sitting at home in the garage.

Doing so will either confirm that it is the lifters or eliminate them as possible suspects.

 

[wolo]

A guy over at Scionlife discovered his hatch rattle was due to the wiring harness rattling against the sheet metal. He ended up wrapping some foam where the problem was and it solved his problem. This pic is from when he was first diagnosing the problem. Take a peek at the thread and thank him if it works for you. I'm trying mine tonight.

http://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic....p=581529#581529

 

[Eric]

I saw that... will probably try that this weekend or this week if there's any day light to work in

...he also found some junk floating around in there probably from when his lip spoiler was installed, which he blew out w/ an air compressor...

 

[moriarty]

i found this today.......




BO009-05
Title: BACK DOOR STAY RATTLE
Models: Technical Service ’05 Scion tC
BULLETIN
June 28, 2005
The back door stays for Scion tC vehicles have been redesigned in order to improve rear hatch rattle conditions that may occur during driving.

�� 2005 model year Scion tC vehicles produced BEFORE the Production Change
Effective VIN shown below.
MODEL PRODUCTION CHANGE EFFECTIVE VIN Scion tC JTKDE1#7#50026713

PREVIOUS PART NUMBER, CURRENT PART NUMBER PART NAME QTY
68950–0W260, 68950–0W261 Stay Assembly, Back Door, RH 1
68960–0W250, 68960–0W251 Stay Assembly, Back Door, LH 1


68950–Applicable Warranty*:
This repair is covered under the Toyota Comprehensive Warranty. This warranty is in effect for 36 months or 36,000 miles, whichever occurs first, from the vehicle’s in-service date.
* Warranty application is limited to correction of a problem based upon a customer’s specific complaint.


Manual: Engine Hood/door: Back Door Stay: Replacement.

1. Remove the back door stay
sub–assembly. Using a screwdriver,
remove the 2 stop rings and stay.
HINT:
Remove the door stay while
supporting the back door with
your hands.

2. Install the back door stay
sub–assembly. Install the stay with
the 2 stop rings.

3. Dispose of the previous back door
stay sub–assembly.
A. Horizontally fix the stay in a vise
with the piston–rod pulled out.
B. Wearing safety glasses, gradually
cut between A and B as shown in
the illustration using a metal saw
to gradually release the gas.
Dimensions: A = 80 mm (3.15 in.)
B = 20 mm (0.80 in.)

 

[Plissken]

I don't quite understand the VIN range they are trying to give there. Are they saying that the 26,713 '05 tC and after shouldn't have the problem and every other '05 tC below that are eligible for the fix?

 

[courier11sec]

Had mine in the dealership today. Sunroof rattle fixed, new lift supports ordered for rear hatch, A/C recharged, instrument cluster removed and replaced with I'm assuming felt or foam applied to it, and a new floormat ordered. The Tech that worked on it, Matt also owns a tC. Very nice guy. parts should be in Thursday. No luck on the crappy throttle response. I didn't expect there to be as it's not something wrong with a part or a system, but rather the design of the throttle by wire itself, but I suppose add one more complaint lodged about it. maybe if enough of us say something, Totota will come up with a solution. The servicewriter said Camrys have the same problem.

 

[lo bux racer]

I bet they are being overly conservative with their error detection and correction algorithms. It's the only thing I can think of that would affect throttle response the way our is affected.

 

[courier11sec]

That's my take on it as well Lance. While I am aware of the benefits of throttle by wire from a design standpoint, I sure do wish they didn't feel the need to get so fancy. Cables work just fine. Too bad so much is tied into the throttle control. (TPS, cruise, etc...) I would be tempted to convert the doggone thing to cable by now.

 

[Crimson3]

Just got my car back from the shop having the rear hatchback shocks replaced. For those of you that are doubing that this is a fix I can confirm in my tC it was a fix to 85%+ of the noise problem. Although not all of the noise is gone, there is no rattle sound anymore just small plastic rattles here and there. Its fixed the problem so much that now I can actually drive around and locate the minor problems without that damn loud metal rattling sound in the back.

 

[iGod]

^^^ excellent. i have mine scheduled for TSB service on tuesday. seeing as how i have not yet taken advantage of working where i have to leave my car for service, they have the list of tsb's to go running through. cant wait to have a reduction in rattle and pop.

 

[wolo]

I look forward to seeing the results, D. Hope they work out because I'm ready to bring mine in.

One of these days...

 

[rangerk]

Haven't had the tsb done yet I did find I was missing one of the rubber cushions on the hatch. This after I bought the bigger "discription cushions" cushions, not wanting to squabble over $6.00.

I'll let you know when I hit the poorly paved=rough surface road I drive the last three miles to work on.

Check your cushions if you have the hatch rattle.

K