Grounding Kit
1 - 20 of 27 Posts
I have a pretty powerful system as of now and my lights do not dim one bit...I would say you would have to put together an extremely powerful system to dim the scions headlights even when I have my system full blast they don't dim at all, its rock solid compared to my old honda, whew the eletrical systems on those are horrible
Joined
·
118 Posts
best way tp save money is a diy.
Joined
·
12,467 Posts
They're not even worth that. Just put some anti-seize compound on your existing connections and you've won 99.995% of the battle.
Joined
·
40 Posts
ok-two things. i looked to do my own grounding kit, and looked for the parts and everything. 15" of 4 guage wire and like 12 connectors and heat shrink would've cost me about $30. the ebay kit costs about $20 shipped. $.01 and $19.99 shipping. still works out better price wise. the ebay kits also give you the extra battery plate and circle connector that would cost you more to do yourself. most of them just don't come with any directions at all. i ordered the kit and just installed in 2 days ago. i grounded a bunch of diff points: spider web out from the neg term to:
1. throttle body
2. engine block
3. alternator
4. the 4 coil packs
5. chassis
7. intake manifold
and a couple of others. next thing i'm getting is the pivot raizin volt stabilizer.
1. throttle body
2. engine block
3. alternator
4. the 4 coil packs
5. chassis
7. intake manifold
and a couple of others. next thing i'm getting is the pivot raizin volt stabilizer.
Are these kits hard to install? I have never done anything with ground wires. Why is this a good mod to do? do you just follow the same points they go to origanally just with a bigger gage wire or do you re route them to new spots? Does this void warranty?
Joined
·
40 Posts
not very hard to install and for under $40 it's well worth the price. i have the weapon r sec weapon intake with ram air kit and the trd exhaust. after i installed them i noticed that when i was sitting on an incline or anywhere else, if i let the car idle at like 500 rpms it felt like it would stall out and start knocking. i dont know if that was cuz of the increased airflow or whatever it was. since i installed the grounding kit i can now idle around 500 rpms and have no problems at all. that alone is worth the price. i'd sit on an incline at a traffic light and have to keep my foot on the clutch and the gas to keep the car in place without stalling.
Joined
·
46 Posts
wow that sounds pretty nice
Joined
·
12,467 Posts
Yeah, regardless of weight penalty. Big wires weigh more. That's half of why the industry is going to 48vdc. Smaller wiring looms, less current, more multiplexing, CAN bus communications. This whole grounding thing is getting crazy.
I have been playing with electrical things since I was 10 years old or so, now I am 52, retired from the USN in electronics, was a union electrician, etc.
Though I have not conducted my own scientific tests I have seen dyno runs with some minor improvements from reliable sources. BUT, very very minor. I thought this over and decided on my last project car to do some testing in a limited way, seat of the pants, made a simple 8 gauge kit, you could hardly tell it was there, the car ran just the same to me, took it off, tried other locations, not a bit of percieved improvement. '
This was on a 1ZZ with 13PSI and stock internals, it was quite fast but I raced it often(only time I usually drove it) and believe I could tell if it ran better, had more power, etc. but it did not to me.
I must say I also had already upgraded the battery to alt wire to 4 gauge and the bat ground to chassis and block to 4 gauge as well, this is the most imporatant you can do. I was setting it up for a big audio install I never got around to, had to much fun racing instead
Rick
Though I have not conducted my own scientific tests I have seen dyno runs with some minor improvements from reliable sources. BUT, very very minor. I thought this over and decided on my last project car to do some testing in a limited way, seat of the pants, made a simple 8 gauge kit, you could hardly tell it was there, the car ran just the same to me, took it off, tried other locations, not a bit of percieved improvement. '
This was on a 1ZZ with 13PSI and stock internals, it was quite fast but I raced it often(only time I usually drove it) and believe I could tell if it ran better, had more power, etc. but it did not to me.
I must say I also had already upgraded the battery to alt wire to 4 gauge and the bat ground to chassis and block to 4 gauge as well, this is the most imporatant you can do. I was setting it up for a big audio install I never got around to, had to much fun racing instead
Rick
1 - 20 of 27 Posts
Join the discussion
