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I know a few people here and there and have heard of alot of people who swap out the pully on their S/C's and even give it more boost to get alot more power out of their supercharger, does anyone know if the 2.4l (camry) engine in the Tc could take that same beating?
 

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Ironhead
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the charger runs off your serpentine belt on the engine, the gears inside that spin up the charger are fed directly off the shaft connected to the pulley. the faster the pulley spins, the faster the supercharger spins up, the more air it pushes, the more power you get kinda thing. right? so if you decrease the size of the pulley, it will spin faster at lower rpms, giving you more boost throughout the entire tach.

oops, the downside part... my bad.
more wear on internals, short gear life, more noise.
 

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Not a bad idea, as long as you don't go crazy with it. All the stock components in the tC can be pushed to 10psi with the TRD SC and will hold up very well, assuming you arent driving your car like a drag racer 24/7. For reference, NST makes some pulleys for the TRD SC that put you at about 9.5psi. Very good stuff...
http://www.nonstoptuning.com/pKitToySciTCscd.htm
 

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Yeah changing your pulley is a bad idea. One your warranty just went right out the window when you do that. Which is a good enough reason to NOT do it. Two if the car could safely and reliably handle more boost TRD would have made it produce more power if it could. The 2AZ in the tC IS NOT the same 2AZ that's in the camry. The botton end is slightly different. ZPI found that out the hard way. The engine may be able to handle it but you have to stop and think if the tranny will hold up as well. With out a LSD I wouldn't chance it. Just because it can be done doesn't mean it should be done.

Being that there are already a few people who have blown up their engines already I say it's a bad idea. No one can prove 100% the pulley caused it but all of the one's I've seen blown up had the pulley changed. Coincidence? Maybe, Maybe not!
 

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I deff. agree with you Josh, if the tC was meant to take up to 9.5psi with the supercharger TRD would of done it, but since its at 7psi theres prob. a good sign that jumping up to 9.5psi will ruin a lot more things in a lot quicker time. so stick with the 7psi the trd s/c gives you. if you dont care about the warrenty then go right ahead add that pulley but upgrade everything else in the process since you no longer have a warrenty.
 

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Originally posted by josh_trdsparks@Feb 7 2006, 01:51 PM
Being that there are already a few people who have blown up their engines already I say it's a bad idea.
There is more than one? Did I miss a bunch of SL threads?
 

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Originally posted by zoltiz+Feb 7 2006, 03:56 PM-->QUOTE (zoltiz @ Feb 7 2006, 03:56 PM)
<!--QuoteBegin-josh_trdsparks
@Feb 7 2006, 01:51 PM
Being that there are already a few people who have blown up their engines already I say it's a bad idea.
There is more than one? Did I miss a bunch of SL threads? [/b]
Yeah there's the guy over on SL and there was another guy in Arizona. The guy in AZ was actually the first one to blow it up. But he didn't go blasting his all over the forums. We're not 100% sure how it happened but he did the install himself and things went wrong about 400 miles later. When the engine was torn down all the valves looked really cooked and the head on the #3 & #4 cyl were turned blue. Blew out all the piston rings and spun out a few bearings.

I'm thinking he put a little N20 on it and got button happy.
 

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Wow. Seriously, though, would changing out the stock S/C pulley for a ZPI or NST Pulley be that much worse?
 

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i don't think so. i'm not an expert, but if you run the car at 9.5 psi all your doing is:

A) throwing out your warranty
B) your car isn't going to last as long. (but also who hear actually plans on having the car much over 75k miles? there will be something new out by then)
C) your going to probally have to have constant maintenance and replace the bearings and a couple things.

once again i could be wrong, but if your looking for more power and dont mind A B or C then i think go for it.
 

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Let me put it like this if you're going to get the S/C and start playing around with it in a way that will effect the warranty then don't get one. The whole reason behind getting the S/C is the keep the car under a warranty. You might as well go get a turbo kit if you don't care about warranty.
 

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BOOST its what I do!
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Have you guys notice the only motors that have blown are with the SC. Not the turboed cars hmm wierd. I think not Turbo put less strain on your motor. in many ways that SC does but the SC puts less strain on other parts that turbos dont. But i have only seen people with blown motors that have the TRD S/C no turbos yet.
 

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^^^ Yeah, um, that would be compeltely false.
 

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Originally posted by SpeeedTc@Feb 7 2006, 09:04 PM
B) your car isn't going to last as long. (but also who hear actually plans on having the car much over 75k miles? there will be something new out by then)
I plan on having it until it starts getting too expensive to keep on the road... most of the time that aroudn 120,000+ miles. So I do plan to keep it that long. There's nothing wrong with a car with alot of miles on it. A car is meant to be driven. I didnt buy it to not drive it.
 

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Originally posted by bluesciontc@Feb 8 2006, 12:43 PM
Have you guys notice the only motors that have blown are with the SC. Not the turboed cars hmm wierd. I think not Turbo put less strain on your motor. in many ways that SC does but the SC puts less strain on other parts that turbos dont. But i have only seen people with blown motors that have the TRD S/C no turbos yet.
Just because you haven't heard about it doesn't mean it hasn't happened. There are only 2 cases where a s/c'd tC has blown up and both people have tweaked the cars. The guy on SL did more the his car than he is telling everyone and we all know it. Putting more boost on a car and not compensating for the extra pressure is not really a good idea. So I don't think it really has to with the s/c so much as the lack of tuning. If the ECU was flashed to handle 5-7psi and you run 9-10psi something is bound to go wrong (lean). When you use a piggy back with the turbo it is tuned to how much boost the turbo will produce. Make sense? Improper tuning is probably the worst enemy of a boosted car other that plain bad driving.
 

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Originally posted by josh_trdsparks@Feb 8 2006, 05:26 AM
Let me put it like this if you're going to get the S/C and start playing around with it in a way that will effect the warranty then don't get one. The whole reason behind getting the S/C is the keep the car under a warranty. You might as well go get a turbo kit if you don't care about warranty.
If only such a clear dose of wisdom were on tap for the masses. Nice post Josh, you hit the nail right on the head!
 

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I don't know any of this 100% but..

I don't think that's necessarily true as some prefer the illusion of large displacement over sheer power. I mean, on an auto X I imagine a supercharger would be better with low boost at low RPM and medium boost at medium RPM and high boost at high RPM rather than full boost from medium to high RPM. Especially those 16G turbos on the ZPI kits, I imagine an auto crosser will hit a turn, heel toe into the next straight and spin out. If I actually am not delusional, the boost will all vent and come back almost at once resulting in a "kick" rather than a build up of power that would come from the supercharger.

I hate to cite an anime for anything but in Initial D 4th Stage, Wataru drives a 4AGZE powered AE86 and has much greater stability than he does the first time he appears (in 2nd or 3rd Stage I don't remember) with a "butt kicking turbo." The first time he races Takumi, after each turn he experiences an instant of lag (it's longer than that instant would be on our 2AZs but there'll still be an instant) and a sudden kick of boost that causes the rear end to wiggle. Of course, we have FF setups so we won't have tail swing but we'll get some front wheel spin.

Since I don't plan to auto x a lot, I'll be going turbo if Turbonetics gets CARB, but I can certainly respect a supercharged tC with a lot of warranty killing mods.
 

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Without a limited slip, as soon as one wheel spins, it's game over. Neither wheel is getting any power. It's sort of self regulating. AMHIK. Besides, when the front starts to slide, you just turn the wheel a tad more and keep a foot in it so the front pulls you back where you intended (unless you've just absolutely completely botched it and you are headed for an off-track excursion). You really have to work to spin out a FWD, and even then, hanging the tail out doesn't hurt at all (except your time, but it's not even in the same league as RWD power oversteer).

Most everybody I know who did track days in a Supra disabled the sequential set up to prevent exactly what you are talking about - a sudden torque spike over a very small change in rpm. If you look at a lot of the dyno queens, you'll see they have a hp increase of 200 - 400 hp in about 600 rpm when the oversized turbo they need for the big number hits boost. It's really unmanageable if you are exiting a turn.

Strangely enough, I learned this same lesson racing motorcycles at Sears Point (Infineon). I could drive my 500 Interceptor pretty quickly and with lots of room to focus on what's important because in many places I could just pull the throttle wide open and let the bike accelerate. It wasn't so much power that it overwhelmed the rear tire, so I could focus on my line, judging traction, catching a breath, setting up someone for a pass, etc.

On the same track with my 150 hp 1200cc Yamaha, I never caught my breath, I never just pulled the throttle open and waited, I always had to split my attention between managing traction, managing the throttle and gearing, then focusing on line, and finally using what little was left to figure out how to get around the guy in front of me. It was a LOT more taxing to ride fast, and it was really challenging to get in a clean lap because the level of concentration and focus was so demanding.

There's a lot to be said for having the right amount of power at the right time. It makes the task of driving fast far easier than having too much.
 
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