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BOOST its what I do!
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What are the torque seetings for the fly wheel and the clutch. i just bought a Fidanza Fly wheel and clutch masters stage 2 clutch. I know that Lo Bux has done it do you knwo what the torque setings are forthe tc please let me know i dont want to #### it up with torqueing it to high or low> I have a very good of how much torque counts we use it on the F-16 every day every thing on that jet is torqued to something no lie.
 

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Former '05er
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96 ft-lbs for the flywheel bolts, 14 ft-lbs for the pressure plate. 47 ft-lbs for the three largest bell housing bolts, 34 ft-lbs for the 3 medium size (the two in the back on top and the one in front of the starter) and 32 ft-lbs for the four across the bottom.

If you are doing this without air tools you have my sympathy. You must drop the subframe, but not completely. I wanted to put together a video step by step for the site, but Keith hasn't made it over with his video cam yet. His is the last one to do. We have it pretty well down after doing 4 of them now.
 

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BOOST its what I do!
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Cool man here is my email so when you make a video send it to me [email protected] i also have a friend that knows what he is doing to he said it didnt look that hard at all he said his civic looks harder then that and we are goin to have a lift at our disposal and air tools so we are good. and thanx for the torque settings that settles my mind alot and i figured you were then man to ask thanx again.
 

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It's not hard. It's tedious, and there are lots of sharp heat shields to slice yourself on. AMHIFK. My hands look like I was in a losing battle with a housecat.

If your friend has experience, the only two things about the job that are tricky are lowering the subframe and lifting the rear engine/transmission mount up out of the way to get the gearbox off. Everything else is very straight forward and typical. Still, it would be cool to make a video and show it all from start to finish.
 

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BOOST its what I do!
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I am thinking i might do that ill have a friend come and we will take pics and see how long my digital camera can take a movie for it. but thanx again fpr all of your help.
 

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BOOST its what I do!
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hey we got it on a lift today and we took a look at it and the only thing i need to know if it takes regular gear oil or just a 30 Weight motor oil. Also could you give a basic run down from start to finish to see what you had to do because it looked more then what you said. Also do you have to take the shift linkage loose?
 

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API GL-4 gear oil, factory recommends 90 weight.

Yeah, there's a whole lot more than what I posted, but you said your friend has done transaxles before. I just talked about the stuff to watch out for, the rest is pretty straight forward if you've done one of these before.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yea my friend has figured it out it is the whole sub frame thing that we want to make sure we aren't making more work for our selves in the end. we figured it out our way but we just wanted to see how you did to see if it was easyer to do that but yea every thing else oh yea it is straight forward he said he knows that. We just wanted to see your view and how you did it. Appreciate the help.
 

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Here's how I did it in less than 3 hours:

Scion tC Clutch/Flywheel - How to R&R

Stuff you need:

1. Safety glasses or goggles - you'll be under the car and getting dirt in your eyes every 10 seconds without them - not a good plan.
2. 3 quarts of transaxle oil. It needs to be API GL-4, Toyota recommends 90 weight, Red Line recommends MT-90.
3. One new axle nut. OK, you don't absolutely need it, but you'll thank me for having it on hand.
4. An engine support bar like the Sunex International 5207.
5. A 6 point 14mm socket, preferably 1/2" drive for the flywheel bolts. A 12 point can damage the flywheel bolt, AMHIK.
6. An 18mm deep well, 3/8" drive to center the clutch disk.
7. A 32mm deep well socket, 1/2" drive for the drive axle nut.
8. A 24mm socket for the transaxle drain/fill bolts.
9. A 24" 1/2" drive extension for the rear engine mount.
10. A 1/2" drive air wrench. If you don't have this, you have my sympathy, the job is going to be slow and painful.

How to do it:

1. Ensure you have let the car cool for at least 2 hours. If you have not, it is extremely likely you will burn yourself at some point. Even after 4 hours of cooling the flywheel will still be quite warm to the touch. I HIGHLY recommend letting the car sit overnight before starting this job.
2. Remove the windshield wipers and the cowling underneath them. This will give you clear access to the top of the strut towers.
3. Remove the battery, the plastic tray underneath, and the metal tray under the plastic tray.
4. Disconnect the MAF connection, and remove the intake tube, if you are stock, just remove the electrical connector and the screw holding the EVAP VSV in place. Leave everything else with the EVAP alone. You'll be ahead of the game to take the throttlebody clamp and prepare it for reassembly (you'll see it locks open with a tab gizmo). It is prudent to cover the throttlebody opening, but not critical if the engine bay is not dirty or dusty.
5. Remove the airbox (if stock).
6. Remove the clutch slave cylinder and the mount bolt for the slave cylinder hard line. DO NOT REMOVE THE LINE FROM THE SLAVE CYLINDER! Move the whole thing to the inside of the front bumper in front of the engine.
7. Remove the starter electrical connections and harness clip, then remove the starter.
8. Disconnect the main engine ground.
9. Remove the wiring harness from the clips in the middle of the transmission.
10. Disconnect the backup light switch.
11. Remove the metal piece the wiring harnesses are clipped on, I like to call it the hand slicer. You don't have to remove it if you don't want to, but if you leave it in place, you'll know why I call it the hand slicer when you remove the gearbox bolts.
12. Remove the clips and washers holding the shifter cables on the transmission gear selector. This is pretty easy with needle nose pliers.
13. Remove the clips holding the shifter cables on the transmission mount bracket. This is easier said than done. You'll need to pry the clips upward, but don't let them fly off and try to hide. They will if you let them. Pull the cables back just enough to get them off the bracket, and push them out of the way.
14. Put the engine support bar in place across the strut towers. Don't even try to use the fenders, they will NOT support the engine's weight and you'll seriously disfigure your car. Use the two threaded holes on the head to attach the support using whatever method you prefer. I used J-hooks and 10 x 1.25 bolts in the head. Scion sells a hook kit for the 2AZ, it might be more convenient, but I didn't need it. Lightly tension the engine on the front and end.
15. Remove the engine/transmission mount from the driver's side end. To do this:
a. Remove the long center bolt
b. Remove the four bolts attaching the support to the chassis, and remove the heavy part.
c. Remove the three bolts holding the remaining bracket on the transmission.
16. If the car isn't already on jackstands, now is the time to get it in the air. Support it using the factory jack points along the body seams under the rocker panels. It's best if you can use four stands and get the car somewhat level.
17. Remove the two large engine undercovers completely.
18. DRAIN THE TRANSAXLE! If you forget to drain the transaxle first, you will get gearbox oil everywhere when you remove the first axle. AMHIK.
19. Remove the front wheels.
20. Remove the cover at the front of the wheel well that blocks the view of the transmission. No, not the wheel well liner, just the vertical cover held on with some push pins and a 10mm head bolt.
21. Remove the ABS sensors from both sides, and remove the bracket holding the brake hoses.
22. Remove the lower strut bolts from both sides.
23. Put on your safety glasses if they are not already on, get under the car and remove the exhaust S-pipe. Be sure to disconnect the second O2 sensor electrical connector BEFORE you remove the four bolts holding it in place.
24. It isn't necessary to remove the hub nut on the passenger's side. Remove the two bolts holding the carrier bearing for the passenger's side drive shaft, and with an assistant, push the axle outward to remove it from the transaxle. Be careful not to damage the brake hose while you do this, and be sure the ABS sensor is completely out of harm's way, it is expensive to replace. If you didn't drain the oil, you've just taken a 90 weight petroleum bath, most likely all over your head. Not that I would know anything about this from experience!
25. Remove the axle from the driver's side completely. Remove hub nut from the driver's side drive axle only.
a. You need to unstake the original nut, and you need the 12 point 32mm deep well to remove the nut. If you can grind off the staked part with a die grinder, you'll be doing your axle a favor. The nut tends to like to damage the axle threads if you don't get it unstaked well. You can also do this with a good sharp chisel, but it will not be as clean as grinding off the mashed part.
b. You will need to pry on the inboard end of the drive shaft. There are notches in this piece specifically for prying it out. I recommend removing the outboard end from the hub first, then prying the driveshaft out and setting it out of the way.
c. Again, be careful not to damage the brake hose by stretching it. You should never need to get it pulled taut at any time. If you are, you're doing something wrong.
26. Prepare to remove the rear engine mount.
a. Remove the two bolts at the front of the crossmember; put one back in temporarily but only with a few turns so you can remove it with your fingers later.
b. Remove the three bolts and three nuts at the back of the crossmember. The nuts will require a 14mm deep well on a short extension. This will allow the rear engine mount to move freely away from the crossmember.
c. Using the extra long 1/2" extension, remove the center bolt from the rear engine mount. It is a 17mm head bolt and has a blind nut, so you can just spin it out with no worries. If you completed step b you will be able to move the rear engine mount easily to get the bolt out.
27. Remove the center bolt and nut for the front engine mount.
28. Crank on the engine support's front J bolt to rotate the engine forward in the subframe - you need to do this to clear the subframe - if you don't rotate enough, you will not be able to get the gearbox out without lowering the subframe. It's a lot easier to just rotate the engine with the support bar front J hook. Don't let the header hit the fans or the raditor, if it does, you've gone way too far.
29. Remove the bolt from the front of the crossmember and swing the crossmember out of the way toward the driver's side with the engine mount still attached (there is no need to remove it).
30. Remove the front engine mounting bracket from the front of the transmission.
31. Raise the rear engine mount straight up and snake it out from behind the engine. This is easier said than done, but will allow the gearbox to come down without lowering the subframe.
32. Remove the four transmission bolts from the engine side of the transaxle at the bottom of the transmission.
33. Swing the crossmember back into place and put a bolt back in it to keep it out of the way.
34. Go to the top of the transmission and remove the 6 remaining bolts holding the gearbox on the engine.
35. Put a jack under the gearbox, and separate the gearbox from the engine. This may take a bit of physical effort. Raising the front of the engine with the support bar to angle it more backward is helpful if you didn't raise it enough when removing the rear mount. To get the gearbox out completely, you'll need assistance.
36. Lower the jack carefully with the gearbox on the jack. This is a lot easier said than done, there is no good balance point on the gearbox. Expect to make a controlled drop to the floor. Move the gearbox out of the way.
37. Finally, you can see the clutch! Remove the 6 bolts holding on the cover (pressure plate), beware, when you pull the last one, everything is going to want to fall on your head.
38. You now see the bare flywheel staring you in the face. Remove the 8 bolts with the 6 point 14mm socket to avoid damaging them. A 12 point will work, but if it slips and beats up a bolt, you may have a long wait to get a new one. AMHIK.
39. Clean the bolts and the holes in the crankshaft with brake cleaner, put the new flywheel in place (it's a LOT easier to hold up there than the stock one!), put Loctite 242 or equivalent on the threads of the bolts, and re-install. Torque to 96 ft-lbs in a criss-cross pattern while your assistant is holding the flywheel from moving with a prybar engaged with the starter gear teeth working against either of the two dowel pins used to align the transmission.
40. Replace the clutch disc and cover:
a. Hang the cover (pressure plate) with a single bolt at the top.
b. Be certain to center the disk with the 18mm deep well socket.
c. Thread up the other 5 bolts, be sure your disk is still centered, and tighten the 6 bolts in a double triangle pattern to 14 ft-lbs.
41. Raise the gearbox into position, and stab the input shaft into the disk. If it doesn't want to slide all the way into position, use a prybar or large screwdriver to rotate the engine using the starter gear and the dowel pin at the top of the engine near the rear. Usually a couple of teeth is all you need to rotate to align the transmission input shaft with the splines in the friction disk.
42. Start with the three biggest bolts on top of the transmission. The gearbox should be up tight against the engine, and there should be no significant gaps between the gearbox and engine. The bolts should thread in by hand without any serious resistance. Remember the block is aluminum, and you don't want to do thread repairs because you got over-anxious and cross threaded these things.
43. Put the other three bolts in from the top side, two in the back near the shifter cables, and one in the front near the front dowel pin.
44. Go underneath and put in all four bottom bolts.
45. Tighten all the bolts until they are all snug but not tight. Torque the top three large bolts to 47 ft-lbs, the other three top bolts to 34 ft-lbs and the four underneath to 32 ft-lbs. For those of you who are going to cry foul by looking at page 41-11 in the FSM, the diagram is wrong, and doesn't accurately depict what I found on five tCs. They have it right on page 41-16.
46. Swing the crossmember out of the way, and install the front engine mount bracket to the transmission. Tighten to 47 ft-lbs.
47. Install the rear engine mount from the top - you will need to snake it back into place so it engages the subframe with the two studs at the back and you will need to move the crossmember back into position because the studs from the rear mount go through the crossmember at the rear; temporarily install one bolt on the front of the crossmember to hold it out of the way.
48. Install the rear engine mount long bolt with the extra long 1/2" drive extension. Don't tighten it yet, but be sure it threads in all the way.
49. Install the three rear crossmember nuts and three bolts that hold it to the subframe but don't tighten them yet.
50. Install the driver's side axle but don't install the axle nut yet.
51. Install the driver's side strut bolts. Tighten to 177 ft-lbs.
52. Install the ABS sensor and the bracket holding the ABS wire and brake line.
53. Install the new axle nut with the 32mm deep well socket and tighten to 160 ft-lbs. Stake the nut in place.
54. Install the passenger's side axle by reinserting the carrier bearing in the bracket while engaging the splines in the transaxle. Install the 2 bolts holding the axle and tighten to 47 ft-lbs.
55. Install the passenger's side strut bolts. Tighten to 177 ft-lbs.
56. Install the ABS sensor and the bracket holding the ABS wire and brake line.
57. Install passenger's side tire. Tighten to 76 ft-lbs.
58. Since you rotated the engine with the support bar, restore the engine to its normal position and insert the front engine mount bolt. Install the nut, but don't tighten yet.
59. Tighten the 3 bolts and 3 nuts on the rear engine mount and crossmember from the bottom of the subframe to 48 ft-lbs.
60. Install the front 2 bolts in the crossmember. Tighten to 33 ft-lbs.
61. Install the engine mounting bracket to the top of the transmission with the 3 bolts you removed. Tighten to 47 ft-lbs. I know there is thread lock on them, but the book doesn't tell you to use any.
62. Install the heavy piece that fits inside the mount to the frame with the four bolts you removed. Install just so the four bolts are started, then stab the long bolt from the front to the back and put the nut on it. Tighten the four chassis mount bolts to 38 ft-lbs.
63. Remove the engine support bar completely.
64. Now, tighten all the engine mount bolts:
a. Tighten the rear engine mount bolt with the long 1/2" extension to 64 ft-lbs.
b. Tighten the front engine mount bolt to 38 ft-lbs.
c. Tighten the transmission mount bolt to 64 ft-lbs
65. Install the S-pipe. The book says to never reuse the gasket, but I've not had any issues. Be sure to reconnect the second O2 or you will have a CEL for sure. Tighten to 32 ft-lbs.
66. Install the clutch slave cylinder. Tighten the 2 mount bolts to 9 ft-lbs, and the hard line mount to 69 in-lbs.
67. Replace the cover in the driver's side wheel well.
68. Replace the engine undercovers.
69. Replace the driver's side wheel. Tighten to 76 ft-lbs.
70. Install the shifter cables using the 2 clips, 2 washers, and 2 pins.
71. Connect the backup light.
72. Install the hand slicer and route the wiring harnesses. Install harness clamps to the hand slicer.
73. Install the engine ground wire. Use some antiseize on the bolts and beat the conductivity of a grounding kit to a pulp.
74. Install the starter. Torque to 27 ft-lbs.
75. Connect the starter electrical connections and connect the harness clamp to the mount on the rear starter bolt.
76. Install the metal battery tray, plastic battery tray, and battery.
77. Install the airbox (if using stock airbox)
78. Install air cleaner, upper box, and hose from airbox to throttlebody.
79. Reconnect the MAF wiring, re-install the EVAP VSV.
80. Refill the transmission with gearbox oil, tighten drain and fill to 36 ft-lbs.
81. Reinstall cowling and windshield wipers.
 

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We could have. It just would have been a really long day. It's still a 2:45 job per unit, so we would have taken about 14 solid hours of kick ass git 'er done kind of work.
 

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Former '05er
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See item 2 in the list of things you need.
 

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Here's how I did it in less than 3 hours:

Scion tC Clutch/Flywheel - How to R&R

Stuff you need:

1. Safety glasses or goggles - you'll be under the car and getting dirt in your eyes every 10 seconds without them - not a good plan.
2. 3 quarts of transaxle oil. It needs to be API GL-4, Toyota recommends 90 weight, Red Line recommends MT-90.
3. One new axle nut. OK, you don't absolutely need it, but you'll thank me for having it on hand.
4. An engine support bar like the Sunex International 5207.
5. A 6 point 14mm socket, preferably 1/2" drive for the flywheel bolts. A 12 point can damage the flywheel bolt, AMHIK.
6. An 18mm deep well, 3/8" drive to center the clutch disk.
7. A 32mm deep well socket, 1/2" drive for the drive axle nut.
8. A 24mm socket for the transaxle drain/fill bolts.
9. A 24" 1/2" drive extension for the rear engine mount.
10. A 1/2" drive air wrench. If you don't have this, you have my sympathy, the job is going to be slow and painful.

How to do it:

1. Ensure you have let the car cool for at least 2 hours. If you have not, it is extremely likely you will burn yourself at some point. Even after 4 hours of cooling the flywheel will still be quite warm to the touch. I HIGHLY recommend letting the car sit overnight before starting this job.
2. Remove the windshield wipers and the cowling underneath them. This will give you clear access to the top of the strut towers.
3. Remove the battery, the plastic tray underneath, and the metal tray under the plastic tray.
4. Disconnect the MAF connection, and remove the intake tube, if you are stock, just remove the electrical connector and the screw holding the EVAP VSV in place. Leave everything else with the EVAP alone. You'll be ahead of the game to take the throttlebody clamp and prepare it for reassembly (you'll see it locks open with a tab gizmo). It is prudent to cover the throttlebody opening, but not critical if the engine bay is not dirty or dusty.
5. Remove the airbox (if stock).
6. Remove the clutch slave cylinder and the mount bolt for the slave cylinder hard line. DO NOT REMOVE THE LINE FROM THE SLAVE CYLINDER! Move the whole thing to the inside of the front bumper in front of the engine.
7. Remove the starter electrical connections and harness clip, then remove the starter.
8. Disconnect the main engine ground.
9. Remove the wiring harness from the clips in the middle of the transmission.
10. Disconnect the backup light switch.
11. Remove the metal piece the wiring harnesses are clipped on, I like to call it the hand slicer. You don't have to remove it if you don't want to, but if you leave it in place, you'll know why I call it the hand slicer when you remove the gearbox bolts.
12. Remove the clips and washers holding the shifter cables on the transmission gear selector. This is pretty easy with needle nose pliers.
13. Remove the clips holding the shifter cables on the transmission mount bracket. This is easier said than done. You'll need to pry the clips upward, but don't let them fly off and try to hide. They will if you let them. Pull the cables back just enough to get them off the bracket, and push them out of the way.
14. Put the engine support bar in place across the strut towers. Don't even try to use the fenders, they will NOT support the engine's weight and you'll seriously disfigure your car. Use the two threaded holes on the head to attach the support using whatever method you prefer. I used J-hooks and 10 x 1.25 bolts in the head. Scion sells a hook kit for the 2AZ, it might be more convenient, but I didn't need it. Lightly tension the engine on the front and end.
15. Remove the engine/transmission mount from the driver's side end. To do this:
a. Remove the long center bolt
b. Remove the four bolts attaching the support to the chassis, and remove the heavy part.
c. Remove the three bolts holding the remaining bracket on the transmission.
16. If the car isn't already on jackstands, now is the time to get it in the air. Support it using the factory jack points along the body seams under the rocker panels. It's best if you can use four stands and get the car somewhat level.
17. Remove the two large engine undercovers completely.
18. DRAIN THE TRANSAXLE! If you forget to drain the transaxle first, you will get gearbox oil everywhere when you remove the first axle. AMHIK.
19. Remove the front wheels.
20. Remove the cover at the front of the wheel well that blocks the view of the transmission. No, not the wheel well liner, just the vertical cover held on with some push pins and a 10mm head bolt.
21. Remove the ABS sensors from both sides, and remove the bracket holding the brake hoses.
22. Remove the lower strut bolts from both sides.
23. Put on your safety glasses if they are not already on, get under the car and remove the exhaust S-pipe. Be sure to disconnect the second O2 sensor electrical connector BEFORE you remove the four bolts holding it in place.
24. It isn't necessary to remove the hub nut on the passenger's side. Remove the two bolts holding the carrier bearing for the passenger's side drive shaft, and with an assistant, push the axle outward to remove it from the transaxle. Be careful not to damage the brake hose while you do this, and be sure the ABS sensor is completely out of harm's way, it is expensive to replace. If you didn't drain the oil, you've just taken a 90 weight petroleum bath, most likely all over your head. Not that I would know anything about this from experience!
25. Remove the axle from the driver's side completely. Remove hub nut from the driver's side drive axle only.
a. You need to unstake the original nut, and you need the 12 point 32mm deep well to remove the nut. If you can grind off the staked part with a die grinder, you'll be doing your axle a favor. The nut tends to like to damage the axle threads if you don't get it unstaked well. You can also do this with a good sharp chisel, but it will not be as clean as grinding off the mashed part.
b. You will need to pry on the inboard end of the drive shaft. There are notches in this piece specifically for prying it out. I recommend removing the outboard end from the hub first, then prying the driveshaft out and setting it out of the way.
c. Again, be careful not to damage the brake hose by stretching it. You should never need to get it pulled taut at any time. If you are, you're doing something wrong.
26. Prepare to remove the rear engine mount.
a. Remove the two bolts at the front of the crossmember; put one back in temporarily but only with a few turns so you can remove it with your fingers later.
b. Remove the three bolts and three nuts at the back of the crossmember. The nuts will require a 14mm deep well on a short extension. This will allow the rear engine mount to move freely away from the crossmember.
c. Using the extra long 1/2" extension, remove the center bolt from the rear engine mount. It is a 17mm head bolt and has a blind nut, so you can just spin it out with no worries. If you completed step b you will be able to move the rear engine mount easily to get the bolt out.
27. Remove the center bolt and nut for the front engine mount.
28. Crank on the engine support's front J bolt to rotate the engine forward in the subframe - you need to do this to clear the subframe - if you don't rotate enough, you will not be able to get the gearbox out without lowering the subframe. It's a lot easier to just rotate the engine with the support bar front J hook. Don't let the header hit the fans or the raditor, if it does, you've gone way too far.
29. Remove the bolt from the front of the crossmember and swing the crossmember out of the way toward the driver's side with the engine mount still attached (there is no need to remove it).
30. Remove the front engine mounting bracket from the front of the transmission.
31. Raise the rear engine mount straight up and snake it out from behind the engine. This is easier said than done, but will allow the gearbox to come down without lowering the subframe.
32. Remove the four transmission bolts from the engine side of the transaxle at the bottom of the transmission.
33. Swing the crossmember back into place and put a bolt back in it to keep it out of the way.
34. Go to the top of the transmission and remove the 6 remaining bolts holding the gearbox on the engine.
35. Put a jack under the gearbox, and separate the gearbox from the engine. This may take a bit of physical effort. Raising the front of the engine with the support bar to angle it more backward is helpful if you didn't raise it enough when removing the rear mount. To get the gearbox out completely, you'll need assistance.
36. Lower the jack carefully with the gearbox on the jack. This is a lot easier said than done, there is no good balance point on the gearbox. Expect to make a controlled drop to the floor. Move the gearbox out of the way.
37. Finally, you can see the clutch! Remove the 6 bolts holding on the cover (pressure plate), beware, when you pull the last one, everything is going to want to fall on your head.
38. You now see the bare flywheel staring you in the face. Remove the 8 bolts with the 6 point 14mm socket to avoid damaging them. A 12 point will work, but if it slips and beats up a bolt, you may have a long wait to get a new one. AMHIK.
39. Clean the bolts and the holes in the crankshaft with brake cleaner, put the new flywheel in place (it's a LOT easier to hold up there than the stock one!), put Loctite 242 or equivalent on the threads of the bolts, and re-install. Torque to 96 ft-lbs in a criss-cross pattern while your assistant is holding the flywheel from moving with a prybar engaged with the starter gear teeth working against either of the two dowel pins used to align the transmission.
40. Replace the clutch disc and cover:
a. Hang the cover (pressure plate) with a single bolt at the top.
b. Be certain to center the disk with the 18mm deep well socket.
c. Thread up the other 5 bolts, be sure your disk is still centered, and tighten the 6 bolts in a double triangle pattern to 14 ft-lbs.
41. Raise the gearbox into position, and stab the input shaft into the disk. If it doesn't want to slide all the way into position, use a prybar or large screwdriver to rotate the engine using the starter gear and the dowel pin at the top of the engine near the rear. Usually a couple of teeth is all you need to rotate to align the transmission input shaft with the splines in the friction disk.
42. Start with the three biggest bolts on top of the transmission. The gearbox should be up tight against the engine, and there should be no significant gaps between the gearbox and engine. The bolts should thread in by hand without any serious resistance. Remember the block is aluminum, and you don't want to do thread repairs because you got over-anxious and cross threaded these things.
43. Put the other three bolts in from the top side, two in the back near the shifter cables, and one in the front near the front dowel pin.
44. Go underneath and put in all four bottom bolts.
45. Tighten all the bolts until they are all snug but not tight. Torque the top three large bolts to 47 ft-lbs, the other three top bolts to 34 ft-lbs and the four underneath to 32 ft-lbs. For those of you who are going to cry foul by looking at page 41-11 in the FSM, the diagram is wrong, and doesn't accurately depict what I found on five tCs. They have it right on page 41-16.
46. Swing the crossmember out of the way, and install the front engine mount bracket to the transmission. Tighten to 47 ft-lbs.
47. Install the rear engine mount from the top - you will need to snake it back into place so it engages the subframe with the two studs at the back and you will need to move the crossmember back into position because the studs from the rear mount go through the crossmember at the rear; temporarily install one bolt on the front of the crossmember to hold it out of the way.
48. Install the rear engine mount long bolt with the extra long 1/2" drive extension. Don't tighten it yet, but be sure it threads in all the way.
49. Install the three rear crossmember nuts and three bolts that hold it to the subframe but don't tighten them yet.
50. Install the driver's side axle but don't install the axle nut yet.
51. Install the driver's side strut bolts. Tighten to 177 ft-lbs.
52. Install the ABS sensor and the bracket holding the ABS wire and brake line.
53. Install the new axle nut with the 32mm deep well socket and tighten to 160 ft-lbs. Stake the nut in place.
54. Install the passenger's side axle by reinserting the carrier bearing in the bracket while engaging the splines in the transaxle. Install the 2 bolts holding the axle and tighten to 47 ft-lbs.
55. Install the passenger's side strut bolts. Tighten to 177 ft-lbs.
56. Install the ABS sensor and the bracket holding the ABS wire and brake line.
57. Install passenger's side tire. Tighten to 76 ft-lbs.
58. Since you rotated the engine with the support bar, restore the engine to its normal position and insert the front engine mount bolt. Install the nut, but don't tighten yet.
59. Tighten the 3 bolts and 3 nuts on the rear engine mount and crossmember from the bottom of the subframe to 48 ft-lbs.
60. Install the front 2 bolts in the crossmember. Tighten to 33 ft-lbs.
61. Install the engine mounting bracket to the top of the transmission with the 3 bolts you removed. Tighten to 47 ft-lbs. I know there is thread lock on them, but the book doesn't tell you to use any.
62. Install the heavy piece that fits inside the mount to the frame with the four bolts you removed. Install just so the four bolts are started, then stab the long bolt from the front to the back and put the nut on it. Tighten the four chassis mount bolts to 38 ft-lbs.
63. Remove the engine support bar completely.
64. Now, tighten all the engine mount bolts:
a. Tighten the rear engine mount bolt with the long 1/2" extension to 64 ft-lbs.
b. Tighten the front engine mount bolt to 38 ft-lbs.
c. Tighten the transmission mount bolt to 64 ft-lbs
65. Install the S-pipe. The book says to never reuse the gasket, but I've not had any issues. Be sure to reconnect the second O2 or you will have a CEL for sure. Tighten to 32 ft-lbs.
66. Install the clutch slave cylinder. Tighten the 2 mount bolts to 9 ft-lbs, and the hard line mount to 69 in-lbs.
67. Replace the cover in the driver's side wheel well.
68. Replace the engine undercovers.
69. Replace the driver's side wheel. Tighten to 76 ft-lbs.
70. Install the shifter cables using the 2 clips, 2 washers, and 2 pins.
71. Connect the backup light.
72. Install the hand slicer and route the wiring harnesses. Install harness clamps to the hand slicer.
73. Install the engine ground wire. Use some antiseize on the bolts and beat the conductivity of a grounding kit to a pulp.
74. Install the starter. Torque to 27 ft-lbs.
75. Connect the starter electrical connections and connect the harness clamp to the mount on the rear starter bolt.
76. Install the metal battery tray, plastic battery tray, and battery.
77. Install the airbox (if using stock airbox)
78. Install air cleaner, upper box, and hose from airbox to throttlebody.
79. Reconnect the MAF wiring, re-install the EVAP VSV.
80. Refill the transmission with gearbox oil, tighten drain and fill to 36 ft-lbs.
81. Reinstall cowling and windshield wipers.
Got light headed but good info. Thanks
 
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