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Hello everyone,

So for starters, it is a 2008, and when I took the wheel off, the caliper style kinda threw me for a loop for a second, as I am used to seeing two sliding pins. Looked up some forums and it seemed like you just take the bottom pin out and swivel the caliper up to make clearance for pad removal.

I tried swiveling it for a good 15 minutes but it just felt like I was going to rip something. Didn't have much sunlight to work with as I was doing this after work, so I just continue forward. Took both caliper bracket bolts out and removed the whole thing as one piece. Rotor came off fine and there were no issues depressing piston back with old pad. I had thought about reassembling everything even though it may be a pain to get the pads in without touching the material, but feel it might be good to address the caliper issue now before I end up in the same place again.

It is also worth noting that the caliper pin I did take out was fairly rusted and guncked up with old brake lube(already getting a replacement pin). I suspect much like with sliding pins it is most likely the same on the other end causing the frozen nature of the caliper. The inboard pad is also severely more worn down than the outboard, would this also be a sign that it is likely getting "stuck"?

If anyone else has run into this issue before or has any advice/suggestion I'm all ears. Thanks all
 

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This is a pretty common issue. Get a brake hardware kit for the rear calipers that has all the rubbers in it. Those are what causes the caliper pins to seize up. They get torn and let water in. I also recommend lubing the pis up with anti-seize grease. Mine were like that when I bought the car. The tip off is that the outboard side of the rotor will be rusty because only the back side is doing anything. Pads will wear unevenly too
 

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just changed mine on my 2005> front pins very stuck used some pb blaster and waited or that to work. when if you get them out clean the pins with brake cleaner and a small brush to clean the bore out. if you buy the kits you can not worry about ripping the boots, kits give you new ones. my rear calipers were just impossibly stuck along with the uneven pad wear due to the stuck piston, so put all new rear calipers and pads.. when you put everything back no grease on the pins! that causes this problem of sticking. gets hard! use only silicone grease on the pins ! reg caliper grease on back of the pads!should be good to go! good luck!
 

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I just changed mine on my "05 tc. I just bought. someone put pads in but the pins were not properly greased so very stuck. got the fronts free, but the rears were impossibly stuck, so put new ones with new pads all around. when or if you get the pins out, clean them with a brush and brake cleaner. when you put them back you should only use silicone grease on these. the regular grease gunks up from the heat silicone does not. just put the caliper grease on the backs and tips of the pad backing plate then you will be good to go with nice free moving calipers. then bleed it all! hope this helps! good luck!
 
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