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I guess they would be classified as surface-mount -- soldering is required. The instrument cluster is not difficult to get at; it's the console LEDs that are the issue. I likely could have done the instrument cluster without major problems, but after I broke my console LCD, I called it quits on the whole idea.
 

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Yeah, they're SMD...14 in the inst. cluster, 22 in the console area. Someone named "tChillin" has a website with a few pics of the cluster here and info where to get the LEDs...although no details of the console area.

SMD are just a little harder to work with, and pricier than through-hole. No biggie...

So, were you able to locate just an LCD, or do you have to get a whole new complete circuit board to fix yours? Or, did the circuit board itself crack?
 

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Originally posted by Dangerous Dan@Feb 21 2005, 08:31 AM
So, were you able to locate just an LCD, or do you have to get a whole new complete circuit board to fix yours? Or, did the circuit board itself crack?
The LCD is not sold by itself. You will have to replace the entire console.

Edit: The circuit board itself did not crack; not even the LCD was visibly cracked.
 

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marty:

I've been into electronics for about 25 years, so here's my thoughts on your display:

If the LCD display is completely blank, and not visibly cracked, I seriously doubt that is the problem. They either usually leak (lines or black blotches in the display, show dim because of a low supply voltage, or are blank because of missing supply voltage or data lines. Unless it was bent pretty hard or cracked, they're fairly durable.

A possible cause would be a hairline crack in the circuit board, or a solder connection that popped loose and "ringed" (broke loose from the solder pad).
These can be very difficult to see without good lighting, a strong magnifying glass and a trained eye. This can be repaired.

Worse case scenario would be a bad integrated circuit (IC) that "feeds" the display with voltage and data. These can be ESD sensitive; a static charge from your body could destroy one. This could happen in car interiors fairly easily...

That IC would usually be a special part made for the application, that could not be purchased separately. The part number is usually purposefully scratched off by the manufacturer. They have you by the gonads then...


All of the above assumes the connector(s) in the car to the board are seated snugly.

I could take a look at the board for you, if you can do without it for several days...
I don't have a tC here to test it in, but may be able to still find the problem. It would be nice if I had a schematic for that board, but that ain't gonna happen.

Just a thought...I can't promise anything, but it isn't doing much good broken.

Sorry for the "short" post...
 

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Dan, I appreciate it -- I think I wasn't clear. The LCD was clearly broken -- as in nonfunctional -- because some of the black material had "leaked" and formed blotches on the screen. I just meant that the LCD wasn't actually shattered anywhere.

I actually bought a replacement console, which included the LCD, so I'm okay now...just a little poorer.
 

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OK...so you did have a "leaker"...I got ya...it must have bent a bit too hard.
They're fairly tough. It's that brute strength of yours...


I've got a capacitance meter here that is blotchy from extreme temperature fluctuations (Sitting in a freezing cold car, brought into a warm house). It's still usuable though. Just looks like chit...

Hell, I need to go into the Scion LED swap business...that may be fun. I can solder in my sleep...well, it feels that way. I'd have to do about a same day turnaround time, tho...peeps would miss their gauges.
 

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Got a vendor/part number for red SMD LEDs? I think red would be way cool in my Indigo car with blue tint...
 

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labfish:

I'm in Cincinnati, OH..


lo bux...

Here's the red LEDs...the brightness of 350 mcd seems to work out well.

http://www.lc-led.com/View/itemNumber/101


scionholic:

Here's a pic of the blue...tChillin is the guy that did these. Not sure if he hangs out on here or not...these are the same LEDs from the link above, except blue..



He did a white for someone that came out real nice, also.

 

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Fish, you have a special way about you. Are you in on the xB Release project?

Dan, thanks for the link and pics. I really like the white, it's a lot nicer than I expected. Still, I want to try red for minimum interference with my night vision.
 
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