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Destroyer of Cones
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Mine shifts like butter, just like it did 36,000 miles ago when I bought it. If the synchros are trashed in someones, then I would chalk it up to improper shifting. I can shift it as fast as I can physically move the shifter (which is about as fast as I can stomp and release the clutch) without grinding unless I just blatantly miss a gear. If yours grinds from the factory, then have a tech drive it and fix the issue. If it doesnt grind when they drive it, then it is most likely a need for some shifting practice on the owners end. If they can reproduce it, then it should fall under warranty.

And when upshifting, if you have to rev match to shift, then you are doing something wrong, or the tranny has issues. I have never in my life had to rev match to upshift on any car I have owned.
 

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I agree completely.
 

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Originally posted by engifineer@Dec 28 2006, 03:31 PM
I have never in my life had to rev match to upshift on any car I have owned.
You have obviously never broken a synchro or shifted without clutching.
 

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Destroyer of Cones
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^^ ok then.. on a properly operating transmission while shifting normally


Yes, I have driven without a clutch completely as well as on a tranny with completely shot synchro's, so rev matching was needed. But I have NEVER destroyed a tranny in any of my cars, or even wore them out prematurely, so like I said, on a car I have owned, I have not needed to. While helping someone else hobble thier car home to fix it (like in the case of a buddies hydraulic clutch cylinder dumping the hydraulic fluid in his floorboard) rev matching was a must of course.

On my motocross bikes, it is a different story.. but shifting without clutching is more common than not in that case. And those tranny's can take a bit more punishment in that area
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Thanks for all of your replies. Somehow, my transmission has started to shift very smoothly. Could I attribute this to break-in? My tranny basically stopped grinding the day before I took it into the dealer.
 

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The idea about it being a sloppy shifter is making more sense. It does not do it very often as long as I MAKE SURE to go straight down (like Doc. I said).

But Doc, would your bushings help this action and reduce the occurance of this? If it does I would seriously considering buying some from you, unless you have stopped producing them.

Just for my curiousity though, what do your (and other) shift bushings do?

-Eric
 

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The factory bushings are squishy rubber things with metal sleeves in the center, for both the shifter cage and the shifter cables. The rubber is pretty soft, probably a durometer rating in the upper 50s (the sole of a common skate shoe is in the 70s)-- if you grab the cage and yank on it, you can get a fair bit of movement. I replace them with solid delrin pieces, durometer of 105. Ask ALaS or Eddnog how much they change the shift feel-- they both have full GearSwitcher packages.
 

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If I installed my short shifter, could I install this?

How much would I be looking at for one of these kits from you?

-Eric
 

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Originally posted by buderic@Dec 30 2006, 12:13 AM
If I installed my short shifter, could I install this?

How much would I be looking at for one of these kits from you?

-Eric
For the cage bushings, it's very easy. You open the center console, unbolt the shifter cage, lift, remove the stock bushings, insert the replacement bushings (they'll slot right into the circular grooves in the corners of the cage base) and bolt back down.

For the cable bushings, it's not quite as easy, but hey--I did it myself. Pop the hood, then depending on your intake, you'll almost certainly have to temporarily remove it, then looking downward, you'll see an almost hammer-shaped counter-weight looking device underneath with two white cable arms hooking onto it. They are held on by cotter pins. Pop out the cotter pins and place them some place safe, lift the cable ends off the perches and then push out the stock bushings, which are rubber and have grooves in the edges to sit inside the cable endloops. Doc Iso's cable bushings are solid, so they are two pieces each; you press each piece into the center of the endloops until the edges sit flush against the endloop. They are machined so tightly (to guarantee zero slack/play) that you may need to do some minor filing to get them to fully press in (that or squeeze hard like a crazy mofo with pliers. Or something.). Once that's done, loop it back down into the perch (there's a stud in the center that pokes through the hole in the center of the bushings) and reinstall the cotter pin.

-Ed
 

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i get a slight "grind" when mine is cold... its not really a grind though... its like i can feel the gears engaging roughly on each other... its hard to explain but i dont think its normal.
 

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Out of curiousity, Engifineer or Lo, how would you put the car into first without a clutch? I understand how you would for the rest of the gears.

-Eric
 

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Destroyer of Cones
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Well... you could try slightly revving the car and slamming into first or second


When limping one in with no clutch actuation (cable/hydraulics for the clutch are out, but the clutch itself is still gripping), if you have to stop, you can kill the engine, place the tranny in first, and take off with the starter untill the car starts. On newer cars you will still have to push the clutch pedal to activate the clutch safety switch. Not the best thing in the world for the starter, but if that is your only option....
 

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Gotta do what you gotta do
.

-Eric
 

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Wow thats a weird problem the only time my car ever grinded is when i miss shift oviously but when i drive normally my gears are fine.
 

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2005 scion tc
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same problem except mine is grinding into 4th and popping out of 5th. just posted my own thread about what i've done so far. is anyone still following this thread?
 
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