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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
For some reason it always seems on these forums, that people fall to 4 things for power, i guess cause it's easier. I/H/E i think is a good place to start, and FI is always an easy way... but there have to be more creative, efficent means for adding power. I know a while ago, there were tests with chrome cylenders, i think textron was doing it, the idea being that there would be no wear in the cylender wall, so therefore you could run tighter clearences, but engines ate a lot of oil with those. High compression stuff can be cool also. When riding my bike, i ran across a seat of intake manifold gaskets that created a venturi effrect going into the cylender heads. There is a company call Gammi, which make GamiJectores, fuel injectors that are specifficaly demensioned to each cylender to match the fuel flows (not all cyl. will get the same, fuel settings to each may vary as much as 25-50 deg LOP or ROP).

Just tryin to see what ideas people have beyond the basic I/H/E / FI... it all gets kinda repetitive

(and im willing to subject my car to many things, as long as i don't end up in the darwin awards)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Who said free? lol i like free but i would rather do it myself, which seems to be even harder to do. not the skills, but, finding a quality guy to tutor a nube... well is harder than bolting on a turbo.

sorry for the prev. bad spelling, had a little too much to drink.

I think i would like to get a junked motor to build up... piece by piece, and leave whats in my car alone. I've gotten into too much troubble taking things apart, and i need my car while working on it. the idea of matched injectors is appealing to me, how about dual ignition systems? anyway to fit another plug in the engine? i assume no cause the valves take too much space.

im ready to learn, just want something more than an exhaust for 500 buck

edit

Seems you posted again while i was replying. anyways

A BP would be easy on a teardown i think, at least a good place to start.

I would like to get the rpms up, but that means shorter stroke( i think) with high compression pistons i think
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I also would not mind removing the counterbalance system if the interanals can hold up the the unbalanced loads... although that would prob. lower my rpm limit again... why is everything a compromise?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
earlier you were talking about a closed deck, would that help for an na engine? and i would like to think BP is a good place to start. at least see what im working with.

Also... you always seem to have lots of links to post... got a liberary of those somewhere?

honestly, im always thinking up little ideas, turns out, 99% are dumb... but having some material that was legit to read could help me not make an a$$ of myself online so much
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
cool, thanks for helping here,

Now i got another question. My car was towed illeagallylast night, the e-brake was on and car was parked nose in. it was also left in first gear. They towed it using a front wheel dolly, but i don't think they could get to the front, so im thinking they towed it by the rear wheels? anyways what sorts of dammages should i look for, should i have it inspected? I have an attourny filing with small claims, plus filed chrges (not going to get into why) on my side, the apartment complex is on my side, they filed petition that it was towed illegaly.

I want to take those $%^#'s for every penny i can, just because of the way the treated me when i brought proof that they towed illegaly
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Ok, on cyl. heads, what i understood from that, bigger is not always better... im guessing that the shape, angle and overal width leading into the valve play major factors in the system. he also described reaching better than 100% VE in an NA engine... im guessing this is very rare. Do headworkers try to utilize the venturi effect to accelerate air into the head? and if they do, doesn't this cause an overal decrease in the density of the air inside the combutstion chameber? or do you want low intake velocity whith high volume to maximize air density. or maybe does it depend on what type of power you want, low end or top end?

Also, if i do get my hands on en engine (had 3500 saved for S/C.. thinking spare engine might be better money now) what kind of stuff could i do to the head to start?

my mechanical experiance is all in 2-stroke marine engines... alas they have very very diffrent heads than we do (no valves per say)

final question, would you make better power working intake, exhaust first, or both together?
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Sorry.. i caved and got a new toy, which has kept me busy just about all summer, something about bikes is just great if you ask me


anyways, i have done a few things to date, but nothing significant...

I still want to attempt to put a clutch on my power steering pump, and i want to get the head ported/cleaned or otherwise. I pulled it out to look at it, and saw a few things i would like to try to change. Velocity stacks - i know they are widely debated, but when i put them on my bike i swear i felt a little sharper response on the throttle. But in lookin at that, i noticed that the intake valve angle is very sharp in our cars. as i recall, high velocity gas doesn't like to take sharp turns. Is there any way to change the intake angle without destroying flow patterns? and its there anything better than a flow bench for checking how well stuff is working that you are doing to it?


and by any chance do you know of anybody hear on the east coast who has done reputable work? (and might let a guy like me kick around and try my hand at it)



edit: One of my students owns a salvage shop... so i may see if i can get a head of an older car to play with for a free lesson or something
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
What i mean, i guess... is that the air tract through the head takes a sharp cut. On the motorcycle, its a much more straight flow. I wish i could sketch on this... like a simple windows paint... oh well.


rather than shaving the deck, is there a way that may be as simple as say... pistons? or would that mess with the combustion chamber too much?


good to be back
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Ok, so i called rudy, my student to see if he had anything on the lot.

He said he had an 05 TC that got wreked pretty good. Car met back of 18wheeler at 40+ mph. He hasn't even taken a look at it yet, but im gonna go down this afternoon and see if there is anything usable on it.

What should i look for? i mean will an impact like that damage the engine? or will it be ok so long as nothing actually impacted the engine?


and how much does stuff like this normaly cost? i doubt im gonna pay for it... buti want to know how expensive the bottle of alcohol i give him should be
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Well... my job is to teach rich people to fly, flight instructors normaly become well connected if they work hard...


Anyways, the car is a mess, total loss.

it looks like the motor just about tore itself from the engine mounts, the top was impacted my something (metal bumper on 18 wheeler maybe?) anyways, the whole thing is jacked up. the inside is all rusted from the battery acid and everything is sticky, i assume from the radiator.


on a side note, the crumple zones on a TC... They crumple pretty good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
I pulled it, well parts of it this weekend. Left the tranny, but got the top end to play with.

I see that lance also has a head to play with now, so hopefully he can post something of good use to me
i would have pulled more, but A, was free, B was such a mess i didn't wan't to bother.


i also got 1 right light unit. (right side, no idea how it's not destroyed) and the p/s pump, and AC unit... ( gonna finaly try to put that a/c clutch on the PS system so i can selectivly turn of power steering. who needs it at highway speed anyways.)

i Guess all in all, your either gonna call me strip, or tyler... but Ty's the name.

Lance, if you do find stuff, try to post pics so i can try to follow along. i got a shop to work on, but somewhat limited tools, im also east coast so it would be hard to come visit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
is it geared diffrent than the scion?

Have you recieved your head yet?, i am looking forward to diving in


Does the 2az have regular cams? and if so, is there anyway to get them shaved for a more agressive profile? I won't need them for a little while, so why not?

Also, working at the airport, we have these things called Gami Jectors, which are fuel injectors tailored for each individual cyl. (diffrent oriface sizes) This is supposed to help with thermal eff., as well as increase engine life ( maintains a more even thermal profile) especially in the boosted engines.

Some A/C engines are boosted as far as 56 in MAP... which i believe is almost 28 psi... on an Unmodified engine.

Also learned that airplanes run about 65-75% max BHP.. while cars run normaly about 12%... and i thought a/c engines were old/poor design. Typicaly car engines put into A/C last less than 1000 hours at that output, while the typical A/C engine will go nearly 4000 hours.

and i thought Toyco overbuilt (j/k)
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Wow.. diggin in the grave yard here

Yeah, i got head work done to the spare, and tossed it on the car. i went the econ route. Sad to say, but a port n polish won't net you much here. The VVt-i system does a pretty decent job of working the head for what it's worth i figure.

I don't really know of anybody who's had head work done, where they really did the reasearch, and flow testing required to do a good job. That would be $$$

I am looking for an entire motor now. I want to tear it down, build it up Print it, and see what i can get from it... NA. but thats all pipe dreams now i think. WHen i started this thread i was a flight instructor, now i am an airline pilot, and the situation has changed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
The days of simple power adders is pretty much done up i think. The engines are being brought under so much control, soon you will have to be smarter than the manufacturer if you want to make the motor do anything else. I think I and others have pretty much come to the conclusion, it's not worth trying to make a slow car fast in the long run. Yea it's fun to do, but you don't get the gratification like you did back in the day when a carb swap meant good power, and cars had cool names, like Hemi Cuda.


Or you can turbo.. but that is not cheap, nor is it proven on a TC yet. When my TC dies, Then i may try to do something to it. Till then, I'M doing pintless stuff... I'm thinking about rewinding my window motors to try to make them faster. Maybe take 15% of the turns out.

 
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