Over this past weekend I have installed an alarm in my TC. I really like having the remote buttons integrated into the key because I hate carrying things in my pocket. I installed this alarm because I wanted to increase the security features without an extra remote. This alarm seemed to fit the bill. I have no idea how much this retails for, but I assume it's in the $60 - $100 price range. Crutchfield sells a Crime Guard alarm which does the same thing for $100 without sensor.
My purpose for posting this is not to educate the world on alarm installation. If you do not have the proper tools, you can cause some very expensive damage to the car. If you are comfortable with installation, perhaps these photos will make your job easier.
Some of the things that I have done in the installation are not necessarily the only way to do it, but my installation was not conventional. If you have any questions about my experiences, feel free to ask. I did not take photos of everything like siren location, alarm brain location, LED location and valet switch location. Sharing soem of these things on the internet would be counter to my efforts of trying to hide them away. The installation of an alarm can make or break it's effectiveness!
Here's the diagram:
The wires I did not use for this installation are:
Dook lock outputs (green and blue)(yet)
Optional sensor input plug
After cutting short all the wires I would never use and harnessing together all the wires that I would into location groups, the alarm brain looked like this:
The horn wire, power and ignition can all be found at the steering colum. Here's the plug with ignition and constant +12V:
It will be plugged into the key cylinder.
In this case, the colors match (ignit yellow, constant red). The alarm does not come with a fuse holder (lame) so you're going to want to add one:
The horn wire is white with silver trace. The brown wire on the smaller plug on the brain gets connected to it. It can be located on this small black plug:
If you were doing a standard type alarm with door locks, the negative trigger wires are here in the drver's kick (these were not wires I used for the 727T):
These wires located int he same area on in the gray plug is what I used for arm/disarm signal input (green and blue from the big plug on the brain):
The red wire (small plug) needs to be connected to the passenger side door lock motor. It's located in the passenger side kick panel, unfortunately, I forgot to note it. It will be on the gray plug and will pulse +12V only when you hit the remote a second time to unlock the passenger door:
For door trigger, I went directly to the door pins and diode isolated them. The 727T comes with diodes for light flash connections in european cars (seperated left and right). Due to the fact that Scion uses negative trigger door pins, this diode set up works as well. **NOTE** The alarm connection is the green wire. Do not connect to the violet wire!
The two door wires are shown here conneted to the diodes. What is not shown is the connection to the alarm (green wire) and the connections to the actual door pins. You can find the door wires in the kicks as well:
If you own a 5spd, started disable wont do you much good. Bad guys usually work in groups. once the steering lock is broken and ignition wires are energized, the other guy bumps it with another car and they pop the clutch. I decided to do a fuel pump cut off instead. It is not recommended to interupt any wire except the starter. If the circuit fails loss of control can occur if the car is in motion!
The wires are located under the rear seat, the larger black wire is the one you want (wired through the supplied relay):
For trunk trigger, I simply tapped the trunk light. Connect the blue wire (on the large plug) to the red wire (or is it pink?):
This alarm had a dual stage shock sensor built into the brain which saves some install time. There is a harness designed for additional sensors. Adding a glass-break sensor would be a nice touch. A hood pin is not included (very lame) but should be added as this is usually the first place the bad guys attack. Once under the hood, the siren can be destroyed (usually with a big rock) or the power disconneted. This is one of the reasons I did not mount the siren under the hood! I plan on posting updates to this installation.
Here is what is on the agenda:
Remote Start (not intended for manual trans)
Stay tuned for updates!