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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After installing the TRD Springs, Shock/Strut, Front and Rear Sways and Strut bar last Friday. I'm totally happy with the setup so far. I don't have anything but the stock setup to compare to for the handle and ride, but so far my tC handles a lot better then stock and the ride is close to the factory ride.

I have the front sway bar on the soft setting and the rear on the middle setting. The car seems to stay flat when cornering at speed.

What effect will I see if I move the link forward( stiffer) in the handle of the car?

The TRD springs tightened up factory wheel gap which is also a big plus on this cool commuter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It seems to have about 1 degree of negative camber in the rear which I think may be ok and the front looks and feels the same. I will have it aligned soon, so I will know if it changed in the front.
I measured the camber with a 24" Protractor on the driveway so it may not be a totally correct measurement.
 

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I'm on TRD dampers + TRD springs as well. From my alignment report, prior to adjustment:

Camber
FR: -0.8
FL: -1.2
RR: -1.6
RL: -1.7

Toe
FR: -3/32"
FL: 1/16"
front total: -1/16"

RR: 1/16"
RL: 5/32"
rear total: 7/32"

So the camber won't do much to you, as the front is in spec and the rear is only out of spec by a touch, but the toe will kill you. Get it taken care of ASAP.
 

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Thanks for carrying the torch Doc! Truer words have not been spoken.
 

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Get an alignment done.
 

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Originally posted by lo bux racer@Sep 23 2005, 07:51 PM
Thanks for carrying the torch Doc! Truer words have not been spoken.
What got me is that the front end toed-in on the right, and out on the left...
I think the tC secretly wants to run the oval.


But man, that 7/32" cumulative in the rear, cripes. My Honda was dropped double what the tC is, and at that height, the rear toe was less than 1/64" total; through the full range, it actually transitioned from neutral, to slight toe-out mid compression, to a mild toe-in at full compression. very clever rearend setup they engineered over there.

As to the "I need to get my camber corrected", I've been fighting that one in Honda circles for years. I ran -2.5º up front and -1.5º in the rear for three years on the same tires, and they worn even, straight across. I don't know how many times I've had to put "Camber does not wear tires, toe does" in upsized, all-caps text before.
 

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You and me both. Nobody ever asks about fixing toe, but they all want to know if they need a camber kit. It's sad how misconceptions become "fact" when they have no basis in fact at all. I've noticed a number of things fitting this description in the tuner world, and it's not isolated to import tuners (though they do seem to have a more sketchy grasp of reality than many of the domestic tuners I know, but that's probably because the domestic guys I know actually race at a track, not on the street or on the Internet. Real results have a funny way of dispelling myths pretty quickly).
 

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I got all of my suspension tech learning in a crash course, at the local oval. I've worked the pit for my brother-in-law's cars for 3 years now, two in the Street Stock division, and one year in the stomach-churningly hairy Late Model Sportsman. When you witness firsthand how 1/16" of toe one way or another is the difference between a tight car and a loose one, and 1psi up or down can take out an exit push, you really begin to respect suspension setup and tuning.

It's also nice to be able to setup the suspensions on my street cars on a Longacre Chassis Scale, dyno my springs and dampers... toys are nice.
 

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Oval racing is competitive and very tough. My dad still works on a dirt track car, and the amount of chassis tuning is amazing, especially when the track starts out tacky and goes dry-slick over the course of the evening, so a fast setup early is a total loser by the feature. Nothing beats the crucible of racing.
 

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One of the first things I learend was "the fastest qualifier isn't necessarily the fastest car". It's pretty easy to get a car hooked up for two laps around-- but how is it going to behave 25 or 30 laps in? The biggest problem I had (being the tire guy, and working up until last year without nitrogen) was qualifying at 5pm, when it's a nice 105º and the temp on the track is closer to 120º, then running the main at 10pm, when the temp has dropped to the mid 70s. We would basically have to change the setup 4 times a night.

Compared to that, street cars are easy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
It seems you guys know your suspension. Thanks for all the good info.
I'm going in on Wed. morning to have an alignment done. I'll be taking the truck to work next week until it's align.
What oval tracks are you guys racing at?
 

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Scenic Orange Show Speedway, is super-scenic San Bernardino California. This season was abruptly cut short when the driver's work schedule (he's law enforcement) went from working 8am-5pm Mon-Fri to 6pm-6am Thurs-Mon. Saturday night racing kinda went out the window.
 

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Now without going too insane on $$$$... What would be the optimal combo for suspension and @ what specs..& i'm talkin'bout kickass combo.
 
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