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QUOTE (bluesciontc @ Feb 8 2010, 04:49 PM)
Travis arent you running SS-P's?
SS (no P yet)...lol. Soon though I'll put the pillowballs on them, but I have an event coming up 3/6/2010 and I don't feel like rushing to get pillowballs mounted on before then. So, throwing the camber bolts in and getting an alignment. My boy laid down a challenge so, we going to battle it out. He is picking up a set of Kuhmo XS tires and says he thinks he can match my 1:18 lap time at NSS. I told him if he is going to match that, then I'm running 1:16...lol. I got something up my sleeve he don't know about yet. Will only bring it out if he reaches my 1:18 time though.
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QUOTE (engifineer @ Feb 8 2010, 09:02 AM)
Depends on what you mean by "factory" ... There is no true adjustment in the front, just a bit of wiggle room. However, there are 4-5 different part numbers for the lower strut bolts through toyota last time I checked. They are basically crash bolts. So the smaller bolts obviously give more adjustment room.
My stock bolts would give around .5 degrees I think. With ingalls bolts I could go to -2, maybe a little more. I was running -1.75 on them.
In the rear, I am pretty sure you can go over -2 degrees. I have had my rears set to -2 before. They are set to -1.25 right now.
In the Ingals instructions, they said to replace the upper strut bolt with the Ingals. So, why would the lower strut bolt have 4-5 different part numers if the upper one is the one used for adjustment? Would the range change if you put the Ingals bolts in the lower strut bolt hole instead of the top? I know it said you can have two bolts per side for an increase in range as well, but if just running a single bolt would it make a difference if it was placed in the lower bolt hole?
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It isn't the tires squealing....It's the pavement begging for mercy..
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Didnt really effect it at all. Its all about toe after that. I run pretty neutral toe I have adjusted it some (means I dont know what it is anymore degree wise) but its about 1/8" toe in for now.
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QUOTE (WhiteEightBall @ Feb 10 2010, 04:45 AM)
^ Correct.
Rythm, if you don't get some in car footage with some footage of that droid app, I'm going to drive over there and rub my butt on your hood.
Kind of difficult to do that with the way my camera mount is. If I try and get footage of the app running, I would have to zoom in far enough so you could see the numbers, but then you wouldn't be able to see the track. Eventually though I will pick up a Hero HD so I'll have dual cameras and be able to run dual feed into one video like I did with the digital speedo in the one vid I posted.
This post has been edited by rhythmnsmoke: Feb 11 2010, 06:57 AM
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You can replace either the upper or lower bolt. I would have to look close, but I am not sure how much difference it would make really. There are two connection points to the strut. If you use a smaller bolt in one hole, it allows you to change the angle between the two bolts, which changes the camber. So changing either bolt should make roughly the same difference I think. However, I guess if one is closer or further from "center", then there would be some difference.
I think I had the ingalls bolts in the bottom hole if I remember correctly. But, it has been a year, I let the guy doing the alignment put them in, and I have since taken them out and just adjust using the camber plates on the SS-P;s
You can run the large amount of camber, but in that case you really probably want your toe set to zero for street or road course driving. On an autox course though, you may benefit from playing with toe more since high straight line speeds is not that big of deal. Turn in response is more important there.
Also remember, that if you change the camber settings after the car is aligned (aka, using camber plates) you also change the toe setting at the same time.
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QUOTE (bluesciontc @ Feb 11 2010, 03:50 PM)
^^^That sounds like a good setting. and yes I run a near zero toe.
wow i like you guys autox thread on this forum. i just realized today that i was subscribed to this forum. im mostly on s/L, im gonna get back into autox this season but im gonna be runnin all seasons til i get back from deployment.
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I autox'd one year on all seasons (Avons) and they did pretty good for all seasons. You will definitely want to run more pressure in them since they wont have super stiff sidewalls. I think I ran 45 psi or so in mine. As contrast, I stay right below stock pressure on the RE-01Rs. I could go even lower as far as sidewalls go, but the response gets poor below that.
Going to probably get part of the season out of my RE-01Rs from last year. They are pretty chewed up, but still have some wear left in them. Put a few thousand miles on them + 6 regular events and 2 test n tunes of about 35 or so runs each. Since the 01Rs are no more and I dont know if I want to shell out for the RE-11's, I will probably go with Star Specs later in the season.
Now, my new dilemma.... I have the TRD bar on the car. I have a brand new set of hotchkis bars (still not sure how I am going to like stiffening up the front) that I plan to try out and now Dezod is working on a small run of the Dan Gardner progress bar with endlinks... My tC suspension collection just keeps growing
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Feb 8 2010, 04:53 PM
There is no true adjustment in the front, just a bit of wiggle room. However, there are 4-5 different part numbers for the lower strut bolts through toyota last time I checked. They are basically crash bolts. So the smaller bolts obviously give more adjustment room. 
